By Elyse Glickman
It is not a stretch to view the maturing craft cocktail movement as an extension of contemporary culinary arts. There’s a generation of chefs who have established a signature style by carefully selecting ingredients and preparation techniques. The same is true of mixologists, who are creating craft cocktails by paying attention to small details that make a big impact. Many of those details happen to be herbal—and they’re freshening up the bar programs at Mexican and Latin restaurants because they pair so well with those ethnic cuisines.
Azunia Tequila’s website, for example, reveals how herbs and seasonings traditionally found in Mexican cooking—think cilantro, mint, marjoram, oregano, and parsley—as well as some that may be surprising, such as thyme, basil, dill, lavender,can transform the most common margarita or mojito into a completely original and refreshingly seasonal cocktail.
Selecting Herbs
“We knew before opening (our restaurant) that we must integrate herbs and fruits into our bar program,” says Clemente Heredia, owner of Caló Kitchen & Tequila in El Segundo, California. “The essential must-have herbs at Caló Kitchen are basil and cilantro, as they complement our food and our brand. Cilantro and basil pair well with our tropical fruit cocktails and the cilantro also gives a bit of spice at the same time.”
Cilantro, in fact, is so important to the cocktail program at Te’Kila Restaurants, a company with locations in Hollywood and Sherman Oaks, California, that the bar goes through as much cilantro as the kitchen does, according to co-owner Kevin Zadoyen.
“Cilantro definitely adds a lot of freshness to any drink made with tequila and mezcal,” he says. “We can't go a day without cilantro because it’s an important ingredient in the Avocado Margarita, one of our signature and most popular drinks, as well as other bespoke cocktails that we add [it] to.”
Te’Kila’s bar menu also incorporates mint and sage into drink recipes, and the bar team has been experimenting with epazote, an herb commonly used in central and southern Mexico and Guatemala, Zadoyen notes.
At Jalapeño Pete’s in Studio City, California, herbs are chosen seasonally so they can pair seamlessly with the restaurant’s seasonal menu items. According to manager Travis Eichensehr, the bar team needs to think on its feet, especially in markets like Los Angeles, where customers are up on the latest flavor trends and there’s an ongoing growing season.
“Rich herbs like basil and sage were chosen to complement the fruit during the winter season, especially as we had cooler weather,” he says. “Now that we are moving into spring and summer, we will introduce interesting herbs into our frozen cocktails such as our Tangerine Thyme Negronis and Sour Cherry Cilantro Margaritas.”
“Herbs are meant to enhance the fragrance of tequilas and mezcal, affirms Eichensehr. ”For example I would incorporate fresh sage with a mezcal. The deep flavor of sage pairs nicely with a smoky mezcal. With a repesado tequila with a heavy vanilla finish, on the other hand, I may choose a fresh mint.”
Storing Herbs
Te’Kila’s Zadoyen recommends their go-to method: wrapping the herbs in a damp paper towel before refrigerating them, which keeps them moist and ensures the texture of the drink will be smooth.
Eichensehr of Jalapeño Pete’s, meanwhile, suggests snipping herbs and resting their stems in water. When storing them in a refrigerator, he says to cover them loosely with a plastic bag and allow for breathing room. “It goes without saying that dried and spice rack herbs usually are not going to ‘go with the flow’ as well in terms of finishing off the drink in a polished way,” he adds.
And Heredia stresses the importance of preparing and using up herbs on a daily basis—something the team at Caló Kitchen does to ensure the quality of all the specialty cocktails on the Caló menu, including the best-selling Grilled Pineapple Jalapeno Margarita.
“We store our fresh herbs and fruits very carefully to achieve a crisp appearance and to cut down on waste,” he says. “We always store them in the fridge to keep them from drying out and when in use, we keep each separated in glasses and lined up along the bar, which makes for a rainbow of eye candy for guests to enjoy while watching our bartenders in action.”
Sourcing Herbs
While many restaurants have generated publicity for their in-house herb gardens, it is not always be possible for restaurants to undertake such a project. However, bar managers and bartenders can still communicate the importance of herbs in other ways.
“It would be great to have a fresh herb garden in house, but we unfortunately don't have the space,” says Zadoyen. “We buy our herbs from, and therefore support, Southern California growers who work directly with our purveyors.”
“Whomever is your source for herbs…use only the freshest and best looking available. Sometimes this is where you start and build around the herbs,” stresses Eichensehr.
And even if you have room to plant that herb garden, Eichensehr says to proceed with caution.
“I advise you to make sure you have a green thumb on staff before starting a garden, and also plan for it,” he says. “Don’t just throw some seeds in the ground. Do your homework and make sure your environment will sustain the herb you desire to grow.”
Los Angeles-based writer Elyse Glickman is el Restaurante’s At the Bar columnist.
Why Muddle?
When handling herbs, mastering preparation techniques is essential because those techniques impact the finished cocktail’s appearance and flavor.
Muddling—an important technique used in mojitos—is one example. It brings out essential oils and breaks down the herb, allowing the essence to mix with the spirit. Straining and adding broken down herb pieces to the cocktail adds color and flavor.