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Cemita Poblana traditional sandwich from Puebla Mexico
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By Ed Avis
Are cemitas the new burritos? They’ll probably never move burritos off the menu, but more and more Mexican restaurants are adding cemitas, with their distinctive rolls and fillings, to their menus.
Take the appropriately named Cemitas Poblanas, which has locations in the Chicago suburbs of Villa Park and Warrenville. There, cemitas take center stage on the menu that includes five varieties of this classic Mexican sandwich including the traditional Cemita Milanesa de Pollo (breaded chicken breast), the loaded Cemita Cholulita (breaded chicken breast, sausage, pork loin and ham), and the innovative Cemita Hawaiiana (pineapple, ham and wieners).
Based on reviews, Cemitas Poblanas’ focus on that special sandwich is paying off. A recent customer wrote: “Blown. Away. Cemitas are my new favorite thing, or maybe Cemitas Poblanas is my new favorite Mexican restaurant. Either way, I am smitten, and my mouth is burning, and I am happy as heck. Highest recommendation.”
Based in Tradition
Tradition says the precursors to the cemita roll emerged in the Spanish colonial times because they were made without yeast — unleavened — and could thus survive the long sea journey from Mexico to Spain.
In the mid-nineteenth century, the rolls became popular in Puebla, a state in east central Mexico, when craftspeople made sandwiches with them to take to work. These were filled with ingredients of the region, typically potatoes, beans and nopal (meat was scarce at the time).
Eventually cemita sandwiches began being sold in markets. Avocado was added, followed by ingredients such as beef, chicken and cheese — fillings the sandwiches are known for today.
Seeded Bun, Classic Fillings
Today’s cemita buns are typically topped with sesame seeds and have a crunchy exterior. Yeast is part of the recipe now, which means these rolls are quite unlike their hard predecessors. And they are traditionally glazed with a mixture of water, corn starch and sugar, giving them a light sweetness.
To make the cemita into a sandwich — often called a cemita poblana — the roll is normally toasted and then stuffed with warm meat (lengua, chicken, carnitas or carne asada), then topped with queso Oaxaca. Very often, the Mexican herb papalo is added, which gives the sandwich a distinctive flavor that resembles a blend of cilantro and arugula. Sometimes chipotle or serrano pepper is added. Sliced avocado, onions, tomato, lettuce and mayo round out the sandwich.
At least that’s how the sandwiches are usually made in the United States. In Mexico, cemitas poblanas are simpler, and more commonly served cold and without lettuce, tomato and some of the other fillings. And a classic protein in the Mexican version is the meat from cow’s feet.
Innovative Versions
As the menu at the Chicago-area Cemitas Poblanas restaurants reveal, chefs love innovating when it comes to cemitas. The tasty roll stays the same, but why not have fun with the fillings?
La China Poblana in Los Angeles sure is having fun: The restaurant offers 16 different cemitas poblanas! Among their more unusual versions are cemitas made with the meat from pig or cow heads; a version with cecina (dried beef); and the Gabacha, chicken breast topped with bacon, mustard, barbecue sauce, and pickles.
Across the country, Cemitas el Tigre in Sunnyside, New York, offers a breakfast cemita with scrambled eggs, bacon or chorizo, onion rings, cheddar jack cheese, pickled jalapeños, and ketchup. But the restaurant is best known for a version that features all the classic ingredients piled atop southern fried chicken.
The bottom line: Cemitas are a delicious, trending menu item your chef will enjoy creating and your customers will enjoy eating!