Ricardo Sandoval celebrates the restaurant’s 2nd anniversary with mom Mariaelena, wife Ivonne, and dad Asunción.
By Natalia Otero
When Ricardo Sandoval talks about his restaurant, El Fuerte de Loreto in Philadelphia, he does so from a place of memory, discipline, and patience.
His story — marked by migration, constant learning, and family work — is a clear lesson for the industry: the combination of impeccable customer service and well-executed cuisine ultimately bears fruit.
THE VALUE OF EXPERIENCE
Sandoval is originally from San Mateo Ozolco in the state of Puebla, just two hours from Mexico City.
“My parents emigrated here in 1998 and brought us over in 2004. We arrived in Philadelphia, and I’ve always been here,” he recalls. His parents, Asunción Sandoval and Mariaelena Ventura, opened the door to a new life for him. “They gave us the opportunity to learn another language, to grow personally, and to get a better education.”
In 2013, then 19-year-old Sandoval enrolled to study gastronomy at Philadelphia’s JNA Institute of Culinary Arts, and graduated in 2015.
“I focused on embracing all the principles of gastronomy; everything related to cooking, from making a sauce to preparing a dish,” he recalls.
The seed for his eventual restaurant, however, came from home. His father had worked for years as a waiter, first in Mexico City and then in Philadelphia, where he trained at some of the city’s most iconic restaurants. He worked with renowned chef George Perrier at Le Bec-Fin and later at Brasserie Perrier, where he perfected his service.
“My dad learned a lot and trained as a waiter for over 20 years. He tried the service floor, but he didn’t stay there,” Sandoval says. “My dad focused more on hospitality: welcoming people, talking to customers.”
Sandoval, too, started as a waiter but didn’t like that role.
“I was really attracted to the kitchen environment, working under pressure. I felt capable,” he says.
Driven by his passion for back-of-house spots, he worked as a chef at La Scala, then as sous chef at Scarpetta, both in Philadelphia. But he had the hunger to learn more, which is what led him to work with chef Chris Scarduzio at contemporary Italian restaurant Teca.
BREAKING OUT ON HIS OWN
Armed with his degree and several years of experience, Sandoval decided the time was right to set out on his own. The idea of opening a restaurant came naturally.
“My dad and I had a chat, and I said to him, ‘Why don’t you and I open a restaurant? You know how to communicate with customers, and I have many years of experience in the kitchen; we can make a perfect duo.’”
The initial plan was to open in 2019, with a clear concept: to honor their Puebla roots. The name they chose does just that: “It comes from the Fuerte de Loreto, an iconic base in Puebla, linked to the Battle of May 5.”
But the road was not linear. The pandemic delayed everything, and El Fuerte de Loreto finally opened on May 5, 2023, with a menu featuring elements of Mexican, Italian, and French cuisines.
“There are many Mexican restaurants, but they all sell tacos and are very basic. I wanted to do a fusion of cuisines,” he explains. “We brought the most iconic Mexican breakfasts, such as chilaquiles and enchiladas, but with a sophisticated twist,” he says, adding that mole poblano occupies a special place on the menu.
“Sometimes we bring mole from the state of Puebla, based on various spices, chiles, and chocolate; it’s thick and it’s the iconic dish,” he says. In the evening, homemade pasta and Italian-style fish with Mexican sauces appear. “We leave Mexican Mexican, Italian Italian, and sometimes we combine the two.”
Customer response initially was great.
“At first, we were the sensation, family and friends came, but after the fifth or sixth month, everything slowed down,” Sandoval recalls, noting that there were days with empty tables. “We thought, ‘Did we do the right thing? Was it not the right time?’”
That’s when one of the most important lessons came.
“The key is not to give up when there are no customers. You tend to think it didn’t work, but the important thing is to be consistent,” he stresses.
Sandoval adjusted the menu, tried specials, measured results, and learned how to promote himself.“I started learning how to advertise myself. Social media is the best tool today,” he says. Facebook, Instagram, and TikTok became allies.
Family support also was crucial. His mother joined the team when business began to grow.
“She is in charge of making all the Mexican sauces for our family; she is responsible for the recipes,” Sandoval says. He, in turn, shares Italian and French techniques with her. Today, his parents, and his wife, Ivonne Samora, who works as a waitress and hostess on weekends, are integral members of the El Fuerte de Loreto team.
BUSINESS IS BACK
El Fuerte de Loreto’s menu moves beyond Mexican basics and includes elements of Mexi-can, Italian, and French cuisines.
Sandoval’s perseverance paid off.
“In 2024, after two years of hard work, we said, ‘OK, we’re there,’” he says. “The key to working as a family is respect and keeping things very clear.”
Operationally, Sandoval applies a philosophy of making full use of ingredients.
“If I use something in the morning, I have to use it in the evening — the same ingredient, but in different dishes,” he says. That versatility helps him connect with his clientele, who are 60 percent American, 40 percent Hispanic. “Americans are looking for Mexican food, and Hispanics are looking for something different, which is why this concept worked.”
The attention to service, inherited from his father, completes the equation.
“The key is the combination: good food and welcoming customers. A restaurant without good service doesn’t work, and good service with bad food doesn’t work either,” Sandoval says.
The reviews confirm it: Customers feel at home.