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By Natalia Otero
Mexicans are not big wine drinkers, and Mexican wine is not found on a lot of restaurant menus in the United States. But that may be about to change, thanks to the efforts of Mexican wine associations to promote the production of grapes and wine.
A key player in this effort has been the Consejo Mexicano Vitivinicola (CMV), which this year celebrates its 75th anniversary. The CMV is a federal association located in Mexico City that works with the states that produce grapes: Chapala in Jalisco, San Miguel de Allende, Querétaro, Aguascalientes, Guanajuato, Coahuila, Baja California, Querétaro, Chihuahua, Guanajuato, Coahuila, Aguascalientes , Zacatecas, Sonora, San Luis Potosí, Puebla and Nuevo León.
Its purpose is to be the institutional voice of grape producers in Mexico. They represent both wine producers and users of grapes such as table grapes, raisins, juice grapes, and brandy grapes.
THE CHALLENGE OF THE PANDEMIC
The CMV’s strength became evident during the pandemic. At that time, the Mexican State declared that alcohol was not a priority and decreed that people could not work in the vineyards. The CMV organized a national effort, including associations that work for them at the local level, to demonstrate to the government that wine production could not stop due to the cultivation cycle. They also organized protocols and training that allowed vineyards to face the pandemic.
The effort worked. The government gave them permission to continue production, and has since boosted the industry. In addition, wineries were one of the first tourist projects that resumed activities.
"It is very interesting because, just as the grape has its life cycle from pruning, flowering and harvesting, the truth is that the wine industry has been able to accompany all these stages very well, also promoting local gastronomy, traditions and the wine tourism”, explains Paz Austin, director general of the CMV.
Paz Austin, directora general del Consejo
After the COVID effort, other projects aimed at the production of sustainable wine emerged; these were highlighted last year during the World Congress of Vine and Wine. For the first time, Mexico hosted this important event in which 49 countries participated, breaking attendance records with more than 2,600 people.
Following up on this success, three other major wine events are coming this year and next. The Vive el Vino event, which includes discussions on wine sales and marketing strategies, will be held June 22-24 in Guanajuato. The Congreso Expo Uva & Vino will be held on October 5, 6 and 7 in Querétaro. This will include demonstrations of industry techniques by national producers, and a trade show for international participants. In 2024, León Guanajuato will host the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, a prestigious international competition that, for the first time in its history, will leave Europe and will have more than 400 tasters.
THE EXPANSION OF MEXICAN WINE
The CMV has alliances with restaurant and educational institutions, such as the Asociación Mexicana de Sommeliers and the Escuela Superior de Gastronomía, UNAM, among others. These alliances promote research centers for relevant issues, such as the challenge of water in light of climate change, good practices, and regulatory and regulatory issues.
"We believe that Mexico needs to develop more and better curricula aimed at viticulture, oenology, service and sommeliering, as well as quality standards," says Austin.
Mexican wine has grown more popular around the world, including in the United States.
"There are more hectares planted with wine grapes in Napa than in all of Mexico, but the quality and characteristics of Mexican wine are unique,” says Austin. “Mexican wine is about quality, not quantity.”
Exports are growing, but many Americans first try Mexican wine as tourists to the country. In any case, Mexican wine is part of the conversation and now is being promoted for its expansion.
“Last year, the federal law on ‘instrumento e industria vitivinícola’ was signed, to formally recognize our activity and grant us budgets," said Mauricio Cantú Barajas, treasurer of the board of directors of the CMV.
Salomón Abedrop, presidente del Consejo Mexicano Vitivinícola
In Mexico, 1.3 liters of wine are consumed per inhabitant, and only 10 percent of the population consumes it. The great challenge of the CMV is to seek to plant more vineyards. For this, it needs the support of the various associations and government authorities to maintain and increase the consumption of Mexican wine.
“In 10 years, we seek to increase our sector by 35 percent, both in agricultural production area as well as in the production of wines and other derivatives, which contribute to the well-being of our population and the country's economy,” said Salomón Abedrop, president of the Mexican Wine Council for 2023-2025.
Natalia Otero is a freelance writer based in Bogota, Colombia.