Chef Rodolfo Cuadros
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By Maximiliano D’Onofrio
In times where the terms “climate change,” “renewable energy” and “care for the environment” seem to have taken on the relevance they should have always had, chef Rodolfo Cuadros is a pioneer in applying "eco-friendly" gastronomic practices.
Cuadros was born in the United States, but at the age of 2 he moved with his family to a farm in Colombia. There, surrounded by plants and animals, is where he feels the environmental movement began.
“I think that in many South American countries the idea of conserving the environment is more latent,” he says. “Living surrounded by nature led us (he and his family) to talk about recycling or conserving drinking water, for example.”
Rodolfo was a faithful witness of how his mother, for example, constantly tried to avoid the use of plastics on a daily basis.
Chef Cuadros harvests some microgreens.
He was ingrained with that respect for nature, and today the father of three children and owner of four Chicago restaurants (Amaru, Bloom, Lil Amaru and Taquería Don Bucio) preserves these practices as a lifestyle.
The starting point is to avoid waste as much as possible, he says.
“Many professional kitchens only look to use the 'perfect part' of the fruit or vegetable, and throw the rest away. We must modernize this vision. The idea is still to serve the best food you can, but respecting the materials and getting the most out of them.”
Composting plays a key role in Cuadros’ kitchens. “Chicago is a metropolis, therefore, it is difficult to find a space to do it, but there are alternatives. We use a machine called ORCA. It is a small biodigester; they compare it to the stomach of a cow. It does not have a motor that grinds, but instead has metal pieces that, together with enzymes and bacteria, dissolve organic waste.”
The structure consumes 15 pounds of food per hour, including small bones.
“If we think about the amount of garbage that restaurants produce every day, and that it ends up in plastic bags that will later produce methane, it is crazy. You have to work with local governments so that they promote and facilitate the implementation of these technologies,” he comments.
In any case, the chef understands that these measures must fight against traditions that are still deeply rooted within the sector. “I have friends with huge track records who see this and are blown away; They hadn't even thought about it."
"Sometimes there aren't enough options, it's true, but you have to fight to find alternatives," he clarifies. For example, for those who cannot buy or rent an ORCA, “there are organic waste collection programs to make fertilizer. They collect it, 'cook' it and make a 'soup' that feeds the pigs. It’s a circle."
But this workflow doesn't just involve garbage management. Cuadros sets aside space at his restaurants to grow his own microgreens, which he then uses in his dishes. This ensures that customers know where those ingredients come from.
In addition, Bloom and Amaru are powered by a company that sells electricity generated from wind and/or sun. “Maybe we pay a little more, but it gives us peace of mind to know that it is green energy,” Cuadros says.
Cuadros does not forget that economics is a crucial factor when it comes to business, but he is sure that there is always a solution. “Our next plan is to buy a gas or nitrogen powered turbine to sell electricity to nearby restaurants. It would provide energy at a lower price, cushioning our investment and, as a fundamental point, provide green electricity.”
Although born on U.S. soil, Cuadros considers himself an immigrant due to his years in Colombia. He considered moving back to Colombia in 2019, but he decided to stay and create something that reflects his culture and values.
Amaru was launched that year, the name inspired by the Peruvian indigenous leader Túpac Amaru. “We chose that name because he was a little-known fighter who represents us. I was looking for something to be proud of for who I am and I think I found it.”
Maximiliano D’Onofrio is a freelance writer who regularly contributes to el Restaurante.