Chef Luis Arce Mota
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Editor's Note: Chef Luis Arce Mota, owner of La Contenta Oeste in New York City, is a pioneer in introducing Mexican wine to his customers. We interviewed him about two years ago (click here to read that article) and asked him recently to give us an update on the situation.
1) Chef, we last spoke to you about Mexican wines about two years ago. At that time you mentioned that the wines had improved over the previous five years. Has that trend continued? What is better now than two or three years ago?
¡Absolutamente!
The momentum in Mexican wine hasn’t just continued, it has accelerated over the past two years since we last spoke. I have observed three transformative shifts:
Consistency and Quality — Wines are now more consistent in style and quality across many producers, achieving higher standards of excellence.
Sustainability and Innovation — There is a growing emphasis on sustainable practices, including organic and biodynamic farming, which resonates with consumers and contributes to better-quality wines.
Terroir Expression — There is a greater focus on expressing the unique terroir of regions, resulting in more distinctive wines that reflect their local origins.
2) In our work to show restaurants that Mexican wine is high quality, we still encounter a lot of people with outdated ideas about that. In your restaurant, has that situation improved over the past couple of years?
¡Claro que si!
When I first introduced an all-Mexican wine list, I faced raised eyebrows: "Mexican wine? For Mexican food?" Two years later, that skepticism has turned into curiosity, and then into loyalty. Guests have their "aha" moment when they try, for example, Valle Seco’s Prima Vera Cabernet (a natural wine) paired with pollo en mole poblano. That’s what I’m talking about.
For some guests, old perceptions linger longer, but overall, the trend is positive. The key to changing these perceptions is education and exposure, and the tide is finally turning. As I tell my team: we’re not just serving wine, we’re rewriting history! Two years ago, Mexican wine was an underdog; today, it’s the guest of honor!
El que prueba repite.
3) Have you run any special promotions or events to introduce customers to Mexican wine?
¡Por supuesto!
Persuading guests to try Mexican wines is part art, part magic. Here are some of the ways we turn Mexican wine into otra más, por favor:
• Taco-Wine Hora Feliz
• Special promotions on Mexican wine
• A “Wine of the Week” program featuring a different wine on a weekly basis at an accessible price point
• Food and wine pairings
• Tasting before you buy
• No geographical competition from other wine-producing countries as my wine list is 100% Mexican.
La mejor promoción es el vino mismo.
4) Which wineries in Mexico are you most excited about at this time? Why?
¡Muchísimas!
Here are some of the most exciting Mexican wines right now. These are the bodegas making my heart race and my menu shine.
Finca La Carrodilla: This is one of Mexico’s first certified organic and biodynamic vineyards. Their sustainable approach, including use of lunar cycles, creates wines that pulse with the Valle de Guadalupe’s vitality. Their Chenin Blanc offers notes of lemon zest on the nose and a palate of citrus blossoms with a hint of herbs and a vibrant finish, reflecting the unique character of the region.
Valle Seco: Located in Valle de Guadalupe, their high-elevation vineyards focus on freshness and elegance. Their commitment to producing premium quality wine while maintaining a deeply personal and approachable style ensures that each bottle truly reflects the character of the area and the vines. The emphasis on terroir, both in the vineyard and in the wine, guarantees that every bottle embodies the unique qualities of the region. Mi Prima Vera is one of my favorite wines produced by Valle Seco. This Cabernet Sauvignon is rich, lively, and full of character. I think it’s simply exceptional, especially paired with my enchiladas de pollo en mole. Absolutely fantastic.
Bodegas F. Rubio: Their approach to winemaking resonates with me. All the grapes are estate-grown and farmed organically, which shows their respect for the land and their commitment to quality. What I love the most is their family- owned spirit. Visiting the winery feels like visiting family where every member plays a role in creating something special. Their Herencia 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Malbec blend is excellent with birria. When you aren't hungry, it’s great with a medium-bodied Mexican cigar like Te Amo World Selection Maduro. It’s organic, complex and unapologetically Mexican.
5) Are you able to easily find the Mexican wines you want to serve? Which distributors or importers are you working with?
I remember that back in the 1970s, I saw my brother get very drunk, and what caused it was a gallon of red wine, which I believe was Domecq. In my opinion, the quality of the wine was very poor. This was when Mexico was producing wine that could get you really intoxicated.
Now, after more than four decades, the scene is quite different. The quality has improved so much that it’s much easier for me to find wines I want to serve in my restaurant. However, the supply remains a challenge because many of the best wines are produced in small quantities and tend to stay in Mexico.
Thanks to importers and distributors like Beso Imports, Primos Imports and International Spirits & Wines, the wines are now more accessible. They ship the wines directly to my business in New York City, making it much easier for me to access the wines I want to showcase.
6) The Mexican wine industry, such as through the efforts of Consejo Mexicano Vitivinícola, has been working to expand knowledge of Mexican wines. Have you paid attention to their efforts? Do you think they are helping?
I don’t personally have a lot of knowledge about the organization responsible for promoting wine in Mexico. As I am based in New York City, I have never been contacted or approached by them. My restaurant — La Contenta Oeste — is the first restaurant in the United States to have a dedicated list of only Mexican wines.
Perhaps in Mexico they are doing a good job, as Mexican wine has improved tremendously and is now much more recognized around the world. However, the effort to expand awareness and understanding of Mexican wine has largely fallen on us as individuals.
Maybe what we need is more support and opportunities to showcase Mexican wines — through tastings or more elaborate symposia, similar to what Europeans do. This could help elevate Mexican wine to a higher level of recognition.
7) What else do you think Mexican restaurant chefs/owners in the United States can do to better grow the sales of Mexican wines in their restaurants?
Firstly, it’s important to feature Mexican wine prominently on the menu and give guests the opportunity to try it. As chefs and restaurateurs, we should work on creating thoughtful pairings with traditional dishes, highlighting how well Mexican wines complement our cuisine. However, this can still pose a challenge as this recent Wine Enthusiast Instagram post about pairing Mexican food and wine demonstrates: https://www.instagram.com/p/DJhGDKwyfdS/?igsh=NTc4MTIwNjQ2YQ==
Indeed, Mexican food goes well with wines from around the world. However, in my opinion, it’s best to pair Mexican food with Mexican wine and it’s up to me as a chef-restaurateur to educate my customers about the joy of Mexican wine.
Staying informed about the quality and diversity of Mexican wines through education is also essential. Mexican wines are now as good as those from wineries from South America, Europe and the rest of the world, and it’s important to share that confidence with our customers. By actively promoting Mexican wines on our menus and educating ourselves and our staff, we can help grow their presence and appreciation in the United States market.