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In 2014, when Santa Barbara tamale-maker Richard Lambert discovered that National Tamale Day didn’t exist, he set out to change things. Gathering hundreds of signatures from tamale fans, Lambert submitted an application to Chase’s Calendar of Events. It was accepted and National Tamale Day was celebrated for the first time in Santa Barbara and across the country on March 23, 2015.
As a chef, Lambert has made thousands of tamales over the years. If there is a secret to making a great tamale, he says it begins with the salsa. “That’s where the flavor is. The right salsa can transform an okay tamale into one that’s memorable, and now we have a day for that every March.”
In tamale-making, salsa is typically blended with the filling before the tamale is assembled. During the Christmas holidays, Lambert gives a tamale-making class that begins with a lesson on how to prepare green and red salsas.
Salsa verde is a key ingredient in Lambert’s recipe for Chicken Verde Tamales with Tomatillo Salsa, which he shares with el Restaurante readers below.
Need tamale making supplies? Check out these vendors:
BE&SCO: Manual and electric tamale machines
C.T. Beavers/Tamale King: Tamale makers, tamale spices, tamale pots
Minsa: Instant corn masa mix for tamales
Performance Food Group: Prepared tamales
Chicken Verde Tamales with Tomatillo Salsa
By Chef Richard Lambert, creator of National Tamale Day
Makes 25-30 tamales
7 lbs. chicken breast, bone-in
3 large green bell peppers, diced
Corn kernels cut from 3 ears of corn
1 qt. tomatillo salsa (recipe follows)
Salt to taste
3½ lbs. prepared masa
2-lb. block sharp cheddar cheese
2 cans olives, large black pitted
30 sheets of tamale parchment paper and 60 ribbon ties
Place chicken in large pot and braise in water for about 75 minutes. Remove chicken and let sit until cool enough to handle. Shred meat and set aside.
Place corn kernels, diced green bell peppers, and shredded chicken in a large bowl. Salt to taste while mixing together. Add ⅓ of the tomatillo salsa at a time until ingredients are blended. Place filling in refrigerator until ready to assemble tamales.
Grate half the cheddar cheese, keeping the rest in the refrigerator. It is easier to work with cold cheese, so grate more when you need it. Place cheese and olives in separate bowls.
Prep the masa in a mixer, using the paddle at a low speed for 1 to 2 minutes. This will bring the masa to a spreadable consistency. Place masa on a sheet pan covered with foil.
Position the masa, olives, cheese, filling, wrapper, and ribbon ties on a flat working surface. Spread 3 to 4 tablespoons of the masa onto a parchment paper sheet using a masa spreader. Keep the masa 1½ inches away from the right and left sides, and about 4 inches from the top (along the 9-in. edge). Bring the masa all the way to the lower edge (the one closest to you).
Place 3 to 4 tablespoons of filling on the masa near the edge closest to you, sprinkle cheese over filling, and place two olives against the filling. Carefully roll tamale away from you and ends of wrapper with a ribbon tie (about 1½ inches in from each end).
Place tamales in a steamer and cover with a cloth to help with the steaming process. Steam for 1½ to 2 hours. Test the doneness of the masa by peeling back the wrapper a little to see if the masa is cooked through. It's best to let the masa firm up a bit by letting the tamales rest 10 to 15 minutes before serving. The tamales will remain warm for an hour or more out of the steamer.
The Tomatillo Salsa:
Makes two quarts
4-5 poblano chile peppers (sometimes called pasilla peppers)
3 serrano chile peppers, stemmed
5 medium garlic cloves, unpeeled
2 white onions, quartered
1½-2 c. chicken broth (or water, for vegetarian)
3 lbs. (22-25) tomatillos, husks removed and washed
3 t. cumin seeds
2 t. coriander seeds
2 t. Mexican oregano
3 T. vegetable oil
Place washed poblano chiles in a pre-heated 450°F oven on a foil-lined sheet pan. Roast the chiles until charred and soft, turning 2 to 3 times. This will take about 15 minutes. Place the charred poblanos in a plastic bag to steam for 10 to 15 minutes. When cool enough to handle, peel away the outer skin membrane and remove the seeds. Set chiles aside.
Place the onions, garlic, and serrano chiles on a heated comal for 10 to 15 minutes until charred on all sides. The onions will take a little longer than the chiles and garlic. Leave the heat on under the comal while you place the three ingredients (after peeling garlic) in a blender with 1 cup of chicken broth. Add the previously prepped poblanos and blend all ingredients for 1 minute, then set aside.
Place tomatillos on the heated comal and char, turning once. This will take 12 to 15 minutes. When the tomatillos are charred and softened, place them in a blender on high for 1 minute. You may need to do this in two batches. Set aside.
Toast the cumin, coriander, and Mexican oregano in a sauté pan on medium high for a few minutes until they begin to smoke. Place in spice grinder and grind until well blended, 10 to 15 seconds.
Heat vegetable oil in large skillet, then add the spice (cumin) and herb mixture and fry for a minute. Add remaining ingredients to the skillet. Do this slowly because the blended ingredients will “spit” when poured into the hot oil. After a minute or so, lower the heat and simmer the salsa for about five minutes to marry the flavors. If the salsa seems too thick, add chicken broth or water and season to taste.
This salsa can be refrigerated for up to five days.
Chef’s Note: The serrano chiles determine the heat level of this salsa. For a spicier version, add more serrano peppers. For a milder salsa, use fewer. I characterize this recipe as the “Goldilocks” version…not too spicy nor too mild. It is the recipe I use when I make my tamales.
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