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Recipe by Chef Rafael Rios, Yeyo’s El Alma de Mexico
This recipe appeared in the May/June 2019 issue of el Restaurante magazine
Growing up in Michoacán—the Mexican state known as the soul of Mexico—Rafael Rios took every opportunity he could to learn and master his mother’s and grandmother’s traditional cooking techniques.
Those techniques—combined with his believe that “the most flavorful cuisine is made simply with the best, highest quality products”—are what he employs to take diners on a culinary journey through the regions of Mexico at Yeyo’s El Alma de Mexico, the restaurant he founded in Bentonville, Arkansas in 2013.
Named in honor of his father, Hector Rios “Yeyo”, the restaurant is the first-ever farm-to-table, ecofriendly and highly sustainable Mexican Restaurant in Arkansas—one that has been named Best of the Best restaurants and food trucks in Northwest Arkansas since 2013 and among the Top 10 best restaurants in Northwest Arkansas in 2018.
Chef Rios considers it part of his job to inspire and inform guests about the bounty that surrounds North West Arkansas.
“My mission is to improve the quality of life in my region through food by proudly sharing my traditions using only the freshest produce grown locally at the Rios Family Farm and other local farms, says the chef, who today is the CEO of Yeyo’s Mexican Group, LLC, which has three locations under (Yeyo’s Mexican Grill/Food Truck, Yeyo’s El Alma de Mexico/Restaurant, Yeyo’s Mezcaleria & Taqueria in Downtown Rogers.
That desire to make a difference has not been confined to restaurant kitchens. He served in the U.S Army for 15 years, and while on active duty during Operation Freedom created partnerships with Turkish and Afghan chefs for unofficial internships that enabled him to expand his appreciation and knowledge of their traditional cuisine and cooking techniques.
He also launched Yeyo’s Gives Back initiative, we donated over $10,000 in 2018 to causes related to mental health, veterans, food insecurity, art and music…
Tortillas de Huazontle…It is a seasonal dish at the restaurant. He loves it because it shows a different side of Mexican cuisine. We are always looking for ways to showcase traditional foods that have not been Americanized.
Tortillas de Huazontle
Makes 10 servings of 2 tortitas per person
The Sauce:
64 oz. ripe plum tomatoes
3 ea. guajillo peppers
5 ea. arbol chili peppers
1 ea. chipotle pepper
4 large cloves of garlic
1 medium onion
1 t. powdered cumin
1 T. Mexican oregano
2 fresh epazote springs
1 T. kosher salt
3 c. olive oil
The Tortitas:
2 lbs. Huazontle stems (about 10 stems)
1 gal. water for boiling
1 T. salt
3 ¼ c. of wheat flour
¾ lbs. feta cheese
¾ lbs. queso asadero or shredded fresh cotija
4 eggs
4 c. olive oil for frying
Start by removing the flowers buds from the main thick steams and place in a strainer, saving one stem with flowers for each plate separately. Remove any stems and small leaves from the reminder of the thick steams.
Place under running water to clean and shake the strainer to remove any excess water.
Cook the Huauzontle florets in a medium-sized pot with water and a pinch of salt at medium heat for about 8 to 10 minutes. They will be tender but still have a bright beautiful green color. Remove and drain any excess water.
Place the cooked Huauzontles in a salad spinner to remove as much water as possible or use a strainer and shake to remove the moisture. Check for any little stems, sticks, or leaves that we didn’t catch before cooking and discard them. Set aside to cool.
While the Huauzontles are draining, cook the tomatoes chilies and garlic in a pot with water until they are soft, and the tomato skins start to peel.
Once cooked, place the tomatoes (skins discarded) in a blender along with the chilies and garlic. Process until you have a very smooth sauce
In a medium saucepan, heat the 2 tablespoons of olive oil at medium heat and add the chopped onion. Cook until transparent and stir in the tomato sauce. Season with salt, oregano, cumin and epazote springs. Gently simmer for about 5-7 minutes until sauce reduces a little and all the flavors are blended. Salt to taste.
Making the Tortitas
To form the patties, or “tortitas,” place a small amount of the huauzontle in your hand and squeeze to remove any remaining moisture. Add a slice of each cheese, cover with more huauzontle, and squeeze from the patty.
Spread the flour on a large plate and lightly coat the patties in it, one by one. Shake off any excess flour, making sure the patties keep their shape while doing this step. Form the rest of the patties using the same process.
Heat the oil; The oil should be about 3/4 in. deep. While the oil heats, beat the egg whites until they form stiff peaks, and then stir in the yolks one by one while beating until you have a fluffy batter. Season with salt.
Once the oil is hot, dip each patty into the beaten eggs, making sure it is well coated. Carefully place the patty into the hot oil; do not overcrowd the skillet. Fry each side until it gets a deep golden color, turn the patty gently. After you’ve fried it, place the patty on a paper towel to absorb the oil.
To serve: Place a small amount of the warm tomato sauce on a plate and top with the patties, mustard greens salad with simple lime vinaigrette finish with roasted corn, toasted pepitas crumbled feta and red onions.
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