Gabriel González
By Natalia Otero
Gabriel González and Lourdes Ávalos came from two small farming communities in Tabasco, Mexico, and now own one of Kansas City's highest-rated restaurants, GG's Barbacoa Café. The husband-and-wife owners say that their restaurant, named among the Top 50 Restaurants in major U.S. cities, was built around one simple idea: share the food they grew up with and welcome every guest as though they were entering their own home.
In this conversation with el Restaurante Magazine, González reflects on the restaurant's roots, its growth, and the lessons he has learned as a restaurateur.
el Restaurante: Where did the inspiration for GG's Barbacoa Café come from?
Gabriel González: GG's Barbacoa Café was born from our roots, our family, and a dream that began many years before we opened the restaurant. My wife, Lourdes Ávalos, was born in La Lucha, a small community in Tabasco, and I was born in El Mulato, also in Tabasco. We both grew up surrounded by the traditional flavors of southeastern Mexico.
I've always admired the way Lourdes prepared barbacoa. One day I told her, "If we ever have the opportunity to open a restaurant, I'd love for us to serve your barbacoa and those smoked pork black beans." That dream stayed with us for years.
After we immigrated to the United States (Gabriel in 1998 and Lourdes in 1999), I worked in several restaurants, including McDonald's, Boston Market, Applebee's, and other establishments throughout Kansas. Every place taught me something about service, discipline, and kitchen operations, but I never forgot the flavors of our homeland.
When we finally opened our own restaurant in 2017, we wanted to build it around our identity. Lourdes' seasoning is the heart of GG's, and my experience helped transform those family recipes into a restaurant.
Lourdes Ávalos and Gabriel González
Where does the name GG's Barbacoa Café come from?
While I was working in a restaurant kitchen, one of the chefs started calling me "Gigi" because it was easier than saying Gabriel González. Over time, the nickname stuck, and eventually it became part of the restaurant's name.
We added "Barbacoa" because it represents the traditional dish we grew up eating and the heart of our menu.
The word "Café" also has a very personal meaning for me. I'm a member of Alcoholics Anonymous, where coffee represents fellowship, conversation, recovery, and a second chance at life. So the name brings together our food, our family, our culture, my personal journey, and our faith.
Why did you decide to focus on barbacoa and sandwiches?
We wanted to offer something with a clear identity. Barbacoa represents our roots, and it became the foundation of many of our signature dishes.
Our sandwiches and tortas allow us to bring together two cultures. They preserve authentic Mexican flavors while presenting them in a format that's familiar to American customers. Many people first try our barbacoa in a sandwich, then come back to explore our tacos, quesabirrias, pozole, and smoked pork black beans.
The response from Kansas has been incredible. Our best advertising has never been a marketing campaign; it has always been the quality of our food and our customers' recommendations.
From day one, we've welcomed every guest as if they were entering our home. To us, every customer is trusting us with their time and money, so every plate leaves the kitchen as if we were serving our own family.
Many guests tell us our food reminds them of Mexico or of meals their mothers and grandmothers used to make. Hearing that means more to us than any award.
Because of word-of-mouth and positive reviews, we now welcome customers from cities and states across the country. That makes us proud, but it also reminds us of the responsibility we have to maintain our quality every single day.
What's the biggest piece of advice you would give other restaurant owners?
First, don't open a restaurant just to make money. Of course a business has to be profitable, but there also has to be genuine love for what you do. When difficult times come, and they always do, that purpose is what keeps you going.
It's also essential to stay current on your taxes, control your inventory, and have the courage to eliminate anything that isn't working. Restaurants lose money through waste, excess inventory, and menu items that simply don't sell.
Never serve a plate that you wouldn't be willing to eat or pay for yourself. Every customer deserves the same quality and the same respect.
Another important lesson is not letting your ego run the business. I always give my wife the recognition she deserves because she has strengths and knowledge that I don't. Working with family requires respect, communication, and humility.
Alcoholics Anonymous has also taught me to recognize my mistakes, apologize when I'm wrong, and never allow pride to destroy what we've built.
Above all, don't try to copy other restaurants. Learn from them, but find your own identity. Ours comes from our roots in Tabasco, Lourdes' cooking, and our story as immigrants. When a restaurant has an authentic story, people can feel it.
What are your plans for the future of GG's Barbacoa Café?
We want to continue growing without losing the essence that brought us here. Our goal is to open a second location when the time is right, but we want to do it responsibly and without compromising our quality.
We also want to strengthen our systems, build a great team, and continue growing as leaders. Personally, I want to become a better CEO by learning more about management, finance, marketing, and leadership.
Our dream is to create opportunities for others while leaving a legacy for our children. We want them to understand that this restaurant wasn't built overnight—it was built through sacrifice, hard work, faith, mistakes, and perseverance.
More than opening more restaurants, our goal is to reach more people without ever losing the heart with which we served our very first plate. That's what the future of GG's Barbacoa Café will always be about.
Below, González shares the recipe for their signature dish.
RECIPE: GG's Birria Barbacoa Café Tabasco-Style Barbacoa
Yield: 5 kg (11 lb) of barbacoa
Ingredients
- 5 kg (11 lb) beef for barbacoa
- 10 guajillo chiles
- 10 ancho chiles
- 4 tomatoes
- 1 onion
- 10 garlic cloves
- Bay leaves
- Avocado leaves
- Banana leaves
- 1 tablespoon ground cumin
- 10 whole cloves
- 10 whole black peppercorns
- Salt, to taste
- Water, as needed for the steamer
Preparing the Adobo
- Lightly toast the guajillo and ancho chiles, being careful not to burn them.
- Once toasted, soak the chiles in water until softened.
- Blend the softened chiles with:
- Tomatoes
- Onion
- Garlic
- Ground cumin
- Cloves
- Black peppercorns
- Salt to taste
- Strain the blended mixture to obtain a smooth adobo.
Preparing the Meat
- Coat the meat thoroughly with the strained adobo and let it marinate.
- Fill the bottom of a steamer pot with enough water.
- Line the steaming basket or insert with banana leaves.
- Place the marinated meat on top of the banana leaves.
- Add the bay leaves and avocado leaves.
- Cover the pot tightly to prevent steam from escaping.
- Cook over low heat until the meat is tender and fully cooked.
Chef's Tips
- Do not burn the chiles while toasting them, as they can make the adobo bitter.
- Check the steamer periodically to ensure it always has enough water.
- Keep the pot tightly covered throughout the cooking process to retain moisture, flavor, and aroma.