By Alfredo Espinola
Pulque has been called by many names: neutle, tlachicotón, cara blanca, babade oso, baba de los dioses.
Each name resonates with the history of a drink that has accompanied Mexico since pre-Hispanic times — one that today seeks to regain the place that beer and other industries took from it in the last century.
Fermented from the honeydew of the maguey plant, pulque typically ranges from 4 percent to 8 percent alcohol, although there are records of alcohol contents as low as 2 percent and as high as 12 percent.
Its production follows a process as ancient as it is simple: the honeydew (the sweet, unfermented sap, also called aguamiel) is collected from the plant and then fermented. The fermentation occurs due to naturally occurring microorganisms, though sometimes already-fermented pulque is added to speed up the transformation.
There are two main types of pulque: natural pulque, pure and without additives, and pulque mixed with fruits such as strawberry, guava, or pineapple (and even unexpected ingredients such as oats or mint). Another variation is distilled pulque, which does not have the preservation concerns of regular pulque.
An Unexpected Renaissance
In pre-Hispanic times, the maguey was considered sacred, its nectar reserved for kings, priests, nursing women, and the elderly. For centuries, it was the favorite drink of Mexicans until, in the mid-20th century, the beer industry relegated it to oblivion. In the plains of Apan Hidalgo, Tlaxcala, and Puebla, the maguey fields were uprooted to plant barley.
Fifteen years ago, the pulque industry found new life thanks to small and medium-sized producers committed to reviving this drink and taking it beyond Mexico’s borders. Today, the renaissance continues: Mexico is home to 200 of the world’s 215 varieties of agave, and the Altiplano (a semi-arid highland in central and northern Mexico) has the greatest concentration of species. It is estimated that there are up to 80 million hectares of land suitable for growing maguey pulquero in the center of the country alone. Hidalgo, Tlaxcala, Puebla, and the State of Mexico lead the way in production, although consumption is no longer limited to the highlands; it has reached Chihuahua, Sonora, Sinaloa, Baja California, and even beyond the border, driven by collectives that appeal to a young audience with fresh and experimental offerings.
For example, Desarrollos del Altiplano, an association of pulque makers in Zacatlán de las Manzanas, Puebla, brings together 300 producers capable of generating 300,000 liters per year, of which 40 percent crosses into the United States, where members of the Mexican community are eager to rediscover the flavors of their homeland.
“The United States is the market of nostalgia, where there are 20 million Mexicans,” explains Humberto Ordoñez, president of Tecnología e Innovación en Pulque Industrial, one of Desarrollos del Altiplano’s member firms.
Brands such as Total Maguey, with gourmet and flavored versions, and Penca Larga, a bottled pulque distributor, are other brands that have expanded beyond Mexico with a presence at trade shows in the United States, Germany, France, Canada, and Japan.
From Ancestral Traditions to International Menus
Until a few years ago, turning pulque into a drink worthy of haute cuisine seemed a distant dream. Now, thanks to modern processes and an innovative vision, this ancient ferment is making its way onto restaurant tables in Mexico and around the world.
“Applying a controlled pasteurization process that eliminates undesirable microorganisms without losing the characteristic flavor of pulque” is the key, explains Humberto Núñez Salas, director and partner of Penca Larga. The result is a hygienic, traceable product with guaranteed stability that makes it attractive to chefs seeking safety and consistency. The great challenge has always been its fleeting freshness. Here, innovation makes the difference.
“Pasteurized pulque remains stable for more than 12 months after bottling. This eliminates the barrier of immediate expiration that has traditionally limited it and allows it to be taken anywhere in the world without losing its sensory profile,” says Salas.
This bridge between tradition and innovation opens the door to previously unthinkable pairings. In Mexican cuisine, pulque finds natural allies in moles, barbacoa, carnitas, and tamales. Its milky and fermented character elegantly balances intense and spicy flavors. But the surprise comes when it crosses over into international cuisine.
“We’ve tried it with mature European cheeses, charcoal-grilled meats, spicy Asian food, and creamy desserts,” Salas says. “The most successful result has been its integration with cheese boards and spicy Indian and Thai dishes, where it adds freshness and smoothness.”
Chef Ana Martorell
Ana Martorell, chef and owner of OXA Cocina Única in Mexico City, is one chef who believes the future for pulque is bright and responds without hesitation when asked about putting pulque on the menu.
“Although we don't have it at OXA at the moment, we always seek to tell stories through what we serve, and pulque is just that: Mexico’s liquid history. Including it is not only a distinctive feature, but also a way of honoring our roots. Imagine pairing a chile en nogada with a good pine nut pulque; we would be connecting the past and the present in the same bite and sip,” Martorell says.
“Pulque has the magic of reminding us that Mexican culture goes beyond what we already know internationally as tequila or mezcal. It would reinforce our identity because it would take us back to the peasant tables, to the flavors that have accompanied our people for centuries,” she continues. “The big challenge is cultural. There is still a prejudice against pulque, this idea that it is heavy or rough. The opportunity lies in educating diners: explaining its process, offering it in careful pairings, accompanying it with dishes that make it shine. If we manage to present it with the same elegance with which we serve wine, pulque will establish itself at the table of any kitchen.”
A Role in Cocktail Culture
In mixology, pulque’s potential is also vast: Natural pasteurized pulque works as a versatile base for cocktails, while fruit-cured pulque adds texture and an innovative profile to signature cocktails. The real challenge, however, is not in the taste, but in the perception.
“The biggest obstacle has been the idea that pulque is unstable or limited to rural contexts. Now it’s time to educate consumers and restaurateurs,” Salas says.
The strategy, he says, is clear: Present pulque as a natural pairing in haute cuisine, not as an exotic rarity. By integrating it into signature cocktails or as a seal of Mexican authenticity on menus, pulque can occupy a place similar to sake in Japan or wine in France.
The path to positioning it on the global stage will require alliances with chefs, sommeliers, mixologists, and gourmet distributors, as well as institutional support to place it at international fairs, festivals, and on menus. Because, beyond technological innovation, the challenge is cultural: to transform pulque from a rural symbol into a banner of contemporary Mexican identity.
Click here to go to the next article, Marketplace
Click here to return to the Table of Contents