Sierra Norte Whiskey is made with native Oaxacan corn.
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By Alfredo Espinola
Mexican whiskey is following the path blazed by Mexican wine, which is featured on the menus of many fine Mexican restaurants because it naturally pairs well with quality Mexican cuisine.
“Mexican whiskey is not about imitation, but about reinterpreting the genre with its own voice,” says Manuel Negrete, an internationally recognized Mexican sommelier. “It has a young but very honest character, which makes it fascinating for those seeking new experiences.”
The Spirit of Corn
Whiskey can be made from a variety of grains, but the Mexican whiskeys that are capturing attention are made primarily with corn, specifically native corn. In ancient plots of land in the Sierra Mixteca, the Chinantla, or on the Oaxacan coast, indigenous communities cultivate ancestral corn varieties such as chalqueño, olotillo, bolita, and tepecintle. There is no trace of chemicals or genetically modified seeds here.
The production process is essential, too. While many whiskey makers use distillation columns, in Mexico they work with stills, a traditional technique that preserves character, texture, and flavor. Each batch is small, unique, with spontaneous fermentation, rainwater, and solar energy as part of the ritual.
One pioneer in Mexican whiskey is Douglas French, who was already well known in the world of mezcal for his brand Scorpion Mezcal, which he has been crafting for three decades. Eleven years ago, this master distiller decided to look toward a new horizon.
“Corn has been grown in Oaxaca for over 7,000 years,” French explains. “Its flavor is complex, deep, and changes with the color of the grain. Why not explore that in a whiskey?”
The result was Sierra Norte Whiskey, which is made with native Oaxacan corn. Today there are six expressions, all based on a single variety of grain: white, yellow, red, black, purple, and a blend called rainbow, which brings together hundreds of shades and flavors.
Each variety contains 85 percent corn and 15 percent malted barley. No additives. No artificial flavors.
“Just two ingredients. And a lot of patience,” French laughs.
The whiskey is aged for two to three years in French oak barrels, which impart smooth, rounded, and slightly vanilla notes. The climate of Oaxaca, with its extreme contrasts between hot days and cold nights, causes a molecular dance between the barrel and the liquid that intensifies the flavors, naturally shortening the years of aging without losing complexity.
At international fairs, the reactions are ones of surprise and fascination. In 2018, Whisky Advocate included Sierra Norte yellow corn whiskey among the 20 best whiskeys in the world, awarding it 90 points. It has also received gold medals at the WSWA (Wine and Spirits Wholesalers of America) and silver in competitions in San Francisco and Brooklyn.
Another leader in Mexican whiskey is Maíz Nation. This distiller was founded by Jonathan Barbieri in 2013 as a solution to a concern: how to protect native corn from the threats of genetically modified organisms while also revaluing it? First, he made mezcal, then whiskey. He liked the idea of creating a spirit from ancestral Oaxacan corn, grown by peasant families with whom he has forged ties of collaboration, fair trade, and mutual learning.
Maíz Nation toasts malted barley ina solar-powered comal to produce its single malt whiskey.
“We are only 30 kilometers from the point of origin of corn on the planet, and no one had ever made whiskey with these grains,” says Jonathan Barbieri. “We wanted to create a world-class product that would also help preserve and add value to these unique seeds.”
Maíz Nation does not mass-produce whiskey. Each bottle is the result of a completely traceable artisanal process that begins on plots of land that have never been touched by chemicals. The portfolio includes a white whiskey that has won over palates with its purity and versatility in cocktails. The company also offers versions aged in deeply charred American oak barrels, which add notes of vanilla, caramel, green fruits, and spices.
Maíz Nation also produces a blended whiskey made from corn, pelón wheat, and rye, called “Selección Barbieri,” which offers fruity and spicy tones, as well as a rye whiskey, using a grain that dominated the North American scene before the rise of bourbon. Today, rye is experiencing a renaissance, and in its Mexican version it takes on fresh and spicy nuances thanks to the altitudes and soils of Oaxaca.
Maíz Nation also has the distinction of producing the first Mexican single malt whiskey, made with malted barley roasted on a comal with solar energy. Its flavor is reminiscent of dark chocolate, black tea, and dark fruits.
Other leading brands of Mexican whiskey are Abasolo and Casa Lumbre.
A Story that is Just Beginning
In 2019, Mexico had only three recognized commercial brands of craft whiskey. By 2024, there were 18 active projects, with volumes that, while still modest compared to tequila or mezcal, show steady growth of 25 percent per year, according to data from the Association of Independent Distillers of Mexico (ADIMEX).
ADIMEX reports that domestic whisky production in 2024 was approximately 280,000 liters, in contrast to more than 500 million liters of tequila. However, its impact on the gastronomic sector has been disproportionate to its volume. High-end restaurants, signature bars, and boutique hotels already include it as part of their distinctive beverage offerings.
The key to continued growth, according to the pioneers, is to maintain quality standards and respect for the origin.
Says Barbieri: “It's not enough for it to be Mexican, it has to be extraordinary.”
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