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Editor's Note: Like nearly everyone, we were surprised and delighted to learn that a tiny taqueria in Mexico City earned a Michelin star. So we asked our representative in Mexico City, Alfredo Espinola, to visit the taqueria and give us his impressions.
By Alfredo Espinola
In May, the Michelin Guide unveiled its first selection dedicated to Mexico, and 157 restaurants from the cities and regions of Mexico City, Oaxaca, Baja California, Baja California Sur, Quintana Roo and Nuevo Leon were awarded Michelin stars.
I was struck by the fact that among the award winners is a humble taqueria, since in Mexico City there are an infinite number of street taquerias. I figured there must be something special about El Califa de Leon, so I decided to visit it.
El Califa de Leon, located on Av. Ribera de San Cosme 56, col. San Rafael, was founded more than 60 years ago by Don Juan Hernandez Gonzalez. Today his son Mario Hernandez Alonso is in charge.
This taqueria was sponsored by the bullfighter Rodolfo Gaona, hence the name of its most emblematic taco, the Gaonera (made with beef fillet from the lower part of the front leg).
Their menu consists of Gaonera, Bisteck (steak), Costilla (rib meat) and Chuleta (pork chop) tacos, also served in a freshly handmade tortilla. You can add a green or red sauce according to your taste.
It is a simple place, with a small space with only the griddle for cooking, a couple of refrigerators for drinks and a small bar where you can find the sauces -- the green one made with raw tomato and chopped onion, and the red one based on pasilla chili.
There are no chairs and tables, a very common feature of taquerias in Mexico City.
What is so special about this taqueria that it received such recognition?
When I arrived a long line of diners waiting to be served welcomed me, and a temperature of 32° C (about 90° F). With nowhere to cover from the sun and much less to sit, I waited patiently for my turn, which gave me the opportunity to observe that in the waiting line there were many foreigners from the United States, Spain, Canada, China and Japan to mention a few. They appeared to be of a high socioeconomic level.
Talking with some of them, they asked the same question as I did: Was it going to be worth the wait to live such a culinary experience? Let's hope so.
After two and a half hours of waiting, I finally got my turn to be served. A taco de Costilla, which due to its size becomes two, a Bisteck taco and of course a Gaonera taco, was my order.
The cost per taco is:
Bisteck $53.00 pesos (about $3.15 US)
Costilla $82.00 pesos
Gaonera $70.00 pesos
A few minutes later the cook Arturo Ribera Martinez, who tends the grill, delivered my tacos, in a simple plastic plate, with no more presentation than the meat on a tortilla and two pieces of lemon to go with it.
The meat was soft, seasoned with grain salt, which apparently was left to rest overnight, and a touch of lime when grilling. Easy to chew, juicy meat with good flavor. I recommend that there is no need to add the salsas as the taco would lose a little flavor.
Our man in Mexico City: Alfredo Espinola enjoying his tacos from El Califa de Leon
They leave a rich flavor in the mouth, but above all the meat is not greasy. My favorite was the steak.
In my opinion, taking into account the waiting time and the taste of the meat, I could say that the experience was good.
The opinions of the customers of Taqueria El Califa de Leon were divided -- some commented that the wait was too long for what they really tasted, others said that the wait was really worth it because the tacos are delicious.
You will have the last word if you get the opportunity to try them -- I only recommend that you come with time and patience as the waiting line is quite long.
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