By Ed Avis
Savvy fans of Mexican cuisine know that each state of that country offers its own flavors, and quality Mexican restaurants in the U.S. often put representative dishes on their menus. Tecalitlan Mexican Kitchen and Margarita Bar in Chicago has taken that concept further: One weekend a month they feature a complete multi-course dinner using recipes from a different Mexican state.
“Our customers really love the idea, and we have learned so much about the food and culture in those states,” says Karla Garcia, who co-owns the restaurant with her brother Carlos. “It’s been really fun.”
The Sabores de Mexico program began last year with a special Oaxacan menu – heavy on moles – in March. Among the other states they covered in 2022 were Jalisco (they flew in the special rolls from Guadalajara to make tortas ahogada), Puebla, Guanajato, Veracruz, Estado de Mexico and Nuevo Leon (which included marinated and grilled cabrito ribs).
Garcia says the process begins six to eight weeks prior to the dinner when she researches the state and sees what cuisine it is known for. Carlos, the restaurant’s chef, scours his collection of cookbooks from Mexico to find appropriate dishes.
“Then Carlos goes through all these trials to get it just right,” Garcia says. “He did six different trials of green chorizo (for the Estado de Mexico dinner in December) until he got the flavor and consistency that he wanted.”
For some ingredients Carlos visits the Mexican markets in La Villita and Pilsen, two Mexican neighborhoods in Chicago. And when he’s missing a piece of equipment that is traditionally used for a dish in Mexico, he makes do with something more common. “We don’t have a hole in the ground to cook barbacoa,” Garcia laughs, “so we used a Dutch oven.”
For the beverages, Garcia contacted the owners of Casa Humilde Cerveceria, a Chicago brewery that focuses on beer with Mexican twist, and they jumped at the chance to provide a different beer for each course. The Garcias host a tasting for the Casa Humilde owners a few days before each event, and they decide which of their brews would pair best with each course. Similarly, she works with Los 3 Garcias Tequila company, owned by relatives in Mexico, to create special cocktails for each course. Guests can choose the cocktail or the beer for each course.
To emphasize the fact that each month features a different Mexican state, Garcia had her graphic designer, Sheryl Mercedes, create a faux Mexican passport with spaces for stamps for each state. Mercedes also created an appropriate stamp for each experience. Customers who attended every event in 2022 – and thus filled up their passport – received a $50 gift card.
Dinners planned so far for 2023 include Chiapas, Sonora, Hidalgo and Tabasco. One change: More vegetarian dishes. Garcia says more and more customers are asking for vegetarian options, so each event in 2023 will accommodate those requests.
The events in 2022 attracted 30 to 40 customers each month, including about 10 who attended every one and thus filled up with their passport, Garcia says. Many of the guests were attracted by the opportunity to learn about the cuisine of different regions, she says, including a couple of customers who were planning trips to Oaxaca and Puebla and wanted to taste the cuisine before they left.
“Unless you’re from those states or travel there, you don’t know about these dishes, so it’s been really fun,” Garcia says. “I tell customers, ‘You’re traveling through food.’”