Chef René Valenzuela
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By Natalia Otero
For Chef René Valenzuela, cooking evolves: when it has deep foundations and is rooted in traditions, it is possible to innovate. As an artist, he is dedicating himself to cooking what really interests him, challenges him, and gives the customer something real.
In past endeavors, such as René's Mexican Kitchen, he opted for the cuisine of food trucks and steak houses, because he appreciates the versatility that these formats provide, as well as the certainty that, to offer haute Mexican cuisine, you do not need to have a restaurant.
However, he is ready to expand his menu and preparation area, so this August 15, he will open a new location of René's Mexican Kitchen in Ybor City, in Tampa, Florida. He has already opened more than 18 restaurants in his life, but this one is special. This time, he dedicates himself only to what really makes him proud to cook.
It is a risk, as he says, since most people tend to order dishes that he no longer wants to cook, such as chicken tacos. For him, the most important thing is to express what he knows and makes him feel proud. Life is short, he says, and we came with a purpose, for which there is no time to lose.
He is aware that ingredients, especially proteins, and techniques can evolve. But, as he explains, it is very important to know the bases, the roots, the history, so that these new combinations have a foundation and what is new makes sense.
“I make food on the edge of evolution. Latin American food, in general, is constantly evolving. Everyone can interpret it, but the artist cannot go beyond the limits: history and the world behind a plate fill it with flavor. You have to have your roots well planted, but know that food continues its natural evolution, to cook something well done,” he explains.
Life Lessons
Chef Valenzuela began selling tacos on the street in Monterrey, the city where he was born. From there he went to the renowned restaurant La Colonia del Valle where he focused on three high-quality tacos: roasted charcoal meat with mesquite; the al pastor top; and charro beans. There he learned about the most indigenous food, which is the basis of his cooking.
Meanwhile, he was exporting jalapeños to Chicago, until one of his clients suggested that he move to the United States. At that moment, he believed that he would go and save so that he could return to Monterrey. But life led him to stay: he got married, had children and found his purpose as a chef.
“I always dreamed of making steak-house-style tacos: In Monterrey we have very tasty street food, avant-garde cuisine. If you go to Mexico, you find a series of tacos that do not cross the borders because they are not as popular as the easy-to-sell tacos, but those are the ones that interest me," says Valenzuela.
In 2018, tragedy struck: the stove in his restaurant exploded and Valenzuela almost died. He spent six months in the hospital, and another six months recovering. He lost everything, but he recovered his courage and the certainty that his life has a clear purpose.
“On my deathbed I had three epiphanies: the brevity of life; the importance of family and friends because when they are going to visit you in the hospital you value it very much; and about the work that we are called to do in life,” he says.
Today he dares to sell tacos with tripe, pork legs, carnitas de buche (pork stomach), extra spicy sauces. But, he focuses on making them cross over, for customers to enjoy. For example, instead of giving them a cheap cut of meat, he gives them a more expensive steak.
When he prepares moles, he tells the story to his clients: White mole was an exclusive part of the aristocracy when they celebrated weddings, as they sought to differentiate themselves from the people, so they used almonds, pine nuts, and walnuts; the pink mole came from a silver mining town -- in honor of the elegance of their jewelry, they brought out a pink mole.
His recipes are aimed at foodies. He is no longer interested in preparing generic food, but for those who really appreciate and are willing to pay a little more to try new flavors that have a history.
On his menu are scallops tacos, in a purple corn tortilla, yellow corn sauce and pickled purple flowers; the chiles rellenos in tacos, which in Nuevo León, Mexico, are found on the street and in small inns; crab tacos; octopus and chicharrón tacos.
“It is a smaller market: not everyone wants pork belly tacos, manta ray tacos, which is delicious food, one hundred percent Mexican, unknown, but I don't know how many years I have left and I don't want it to reach my deathbed, thinking: I wasted those years doing a stupid job that I'm not proud of.”
Natalia Otero is a regular contributor to el Restaurante.