Yolanda Ruiz
By Alfredo Espinola
In the rugged landscapes where maguey reigns and the sun melts into the earth, a voice that was once a whisper can now be heard: the voice of the women of mezcal. It has not been an easy journey, but today, thanks to their determination, passion, and wisdom, that ancestral murmur has become a strong and resonant song.
In Jiquilpan, Michoacán, where the earth smells of history and the countryside sings with the breeze, a story is born that distills strength, roots, and transformation. Yolanda Ruiz describes herself as a humble peasant woman, but behind that modesty lies a woman whose vision has fermented a national movement: the revaluation of the role of women in the world of Mexican spirits.
With a degree in international relations and heir to a family tradition of mezcal making, it was her grandfather, master mezcal maker and wise man of the countryside Tirso Sánchez, who planted the seed of this spiritual drink in her. And her grandfather Benjamín Ruiz gave her the philosophy that guides her cause today:
“All people need is a little push to change their lives.”
Today, Yolanda is a founding member and national president of the Association of Women of Mezcal and Distillates of Mexico, a network that was created two decades ago alongside engineer Luz María, with a clear intention: to give visibility to women in an industry that, for centuries, has had a male face.
“When people talked about mezcal, they talked about men. But behind many of those bottles are women planting, harvesting, distilling, and tasting. We are also the soul of this tradition.”
The association has become a space for women who want to work the land, learn to taste, or become master distillers to meet, train, and empower themselves. They find in this network the support they need to grow. What began as a movement focused on mezcal now also embraces sotol, raicilla, tequila, bacanora, and even pulque, spreading throughout the country.
In each state, there is a state president who leads local actions, and very soon, the movement will cross borders: the International Association of Women in Mezcal and Distillates is already underway, with the aim of facilitating the global distribution of their products and adding foreign allies to the collective dream.
More than a drink, mezcal is a symbol of identity, resistance, and transformation for Yolanda. It is a drink that holds within it the history of many women who, thanks to their work and tenacity, are now not only distillers but also leaders.
A decade ago, breaking into the world of spirits was an uphill battle. In rural areas, machismo was as deeply rooted as the agave itself, and obtaining certification was a maze full of obstacles. But a group of women formed the Association of Women of Mezcal and Distillates of Mexico, deciding to change history by becoming a collective that, beyond opening doors, is building paths for those who come after them.
Since its inception, this association has been committed to the comprehensive growth of its members: from production and traceability to access to certifications and physical-chemical analysis.
Thanks to this technical and strategic work, many of them now export their distillates to Europe and the United States, as well as being recognized with international awards. “Today we have influential women who give us visibility, who echo our voices and remind us that we are here and we will continue,” shares Yolanda Ruiz, president of the association, who has taken this cause beyond forums and fairs.
Her passion for highlighting the role of women in this ancient tradition led her to produce the documentary Las hijas del maguey (The Daughters of the Maguey), a tribute to the mezcaleras, the owners of palenques, and, above all, the women who dreamed of distilling not only agave, but also freedom.
What is fascinating about this group is its diversity; ancestral knowledge coexists with scientific studies, oral traditions with carbon footprint analysis, and lunar calendars with sustainable practices. This plurality not only enriches mezcal, but also strengthens the community.
The association is currently expanding. This year, they will hold a special meeting to welcome new members, including producers from southeastern Mexico, such as Quintana Roo, with its traditional balché, and Yucatán, with its mystical xtabentún. This is a clear sign that the network of women distillers knows no borders.
Every drop of mezcal that is born in their hands tells a story, whether it be one of resistance, heritage, innovation, and, above all, a story in which the future is distilled with a woman's name.
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