Editor’s Note: Wow, we were overwhelmed with the response to our first contest honoring independent Mexican restaurant owners. We received nearly 700 nominations! It was difficult choosing the winners, but in the end these three topped the rest. They were chosen by a panel of four judges: Lilly Rocha, CEO of the Latino Restaurant Association; Eric Delamare, director of marketing, Novamex; Kathleen Furore, editor of el Restaurante; and Ed Avis, publisher of el Restaurante.
Third Place: Andres Reyes, Birrieria Ocotlan, Chicago
Andres Reyes is only 33 years old, but he is maintaining a tradition that stretches back to 1926, when his great great grandfather started a birrieria in Ocatlan, Jalisco. Reyes’ restaurant, appropriately called Birrieria Ocotlan, was founded by his father, Ramon, in 1973. Andres took over the business when Ramon retired about five years ago.
“If you’re from Ocatlan, Jalisco and your name is Reyes, you’re associated with being a birriria,” Reyes says. “We still have a cousin there who has a pretty popular birriria.”
Reyes is living up to the reputation of his last name – Birreria Ocotlan, which has two locations, is widely praised for its traditional goat and beef birria. “The birria and this restaurant are the most authentic taste and feel that you can get outside of Mexico here in Chicago,” wrote customer Gerardo Orozco in his nomination of Reyes.
The success of Birrieria Ocotlan, and Reyes’ support of his employees and community, are what led to him winning third place in the Jarrito’s/el Restaurante Independent Mexican Restaurant Owner of the Year Contest.
The authentic birria is at the heart of Reyes’ success. He has maintained the four-generation-old family recipe, which means each batch is created by hand in a five-hour process. The finishing touch is a special spice mix, which Reyes mixes himself in batches that last one month. Customers order tacos made with the birria or bowls of the consommé with birria.
But Reyes’ success is due to more than just great birria, according to the people who nominated him.
“Andres Reyes always puts his employees first,” wrote Stacy Carreon in her nomination of Reyes. “During the pandemic he shut down for two weeks while he adapted to put in place COVID safety measures, and paid everyone the full two weeks. He recently also closed his restaurant for two hours and personally drove each member of his staff to get a COVID vaccine (If the employee of course chose to do so). He was able to advocate and secure appointments for all of his frontline working Latino staff who he employs.”
Many residents of the South Side and Southeast Side communities of Chicago that house the two locations Birrieria Ocotlan worked at steel mills in previous generations, but when those mills closed the area suffered economically. Reyes says he’s pleased that his restaurants have remained an essential part of those communities, and he’s always happy to support local youth sports teams and other charities.
“We owe it to South Chicago and Southeast Chicago to give back,” Reyes says. “So when we have sports teams come in, we support them – soccer, baseball and softball. It gets kids out of their everyday lives, and maybe helps them see a better future.”
According to the nominations, Reyes’ efforts to improve the lives of residents in his community -- either through philanthropy, employment, or great food – are succeeding. Says Carreon: “This Birria restaurant changes lives.”