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Chef Enrique Salazar
By Natalia Otero
At his new restaurant, K'Kinaco Nikkei & Pisco Bar in Hopkins, Minnesota, chef Enrique Salazar offers authentic Nikkei food, a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian food that is found nowhere else in the state. The techniques he learned during 16 years as a sushi chef at Benihana, together with the lessons from his mother, allow him to create dishes that resemble works of art. For this, they call him "Mr. Nikkei."
Creamy Desserts
The cuisine of Peru developed through waves of European, Arab and later Asian immigration. The country’s traditional ingredients, such as corn, corn, potatoes, and chili peppers, merged with the flavors and techniques brought by the new arrivals, gave rise to the Nikkei food that Salazar prepares today.
His desserts, which were the passion of his mother, demonstrate the perfection of Salazar's technique. He says these creamy desserts bring back beautiful memories of his childhood kitchen.
Two of his flagship desserts on currently on the menu: the Crema Volteada and the Suspiro de Limeña.
Crema Volteada
“Crema Volteada is a mixture of steamed milk with eggs, condensed milk, mixed and well strained, with a caramel base. It is very popular in Peru,” Salazar expalins. “I present it with fruit and I make very creamy. It is a noble and simple dessert, but pleasant.”
This original recipe from his mother is popular among diners, as it is a friendly dessert that combines well with Nikkei food. The fruit is typically blackberry or strawberry. Salazar’s mother’s techniques make the dessert consistent and creamy.
Suspiro de Limeña is a reduction of evaporated milk with condensed milk.
“I use evaporated milk for certification reasons, since it is not canned and that ensures quality. Then I leave it in reduction, stirring the milk, until it is the right consistency,” Salazar explains. “At the end, I add vanilla essence to highlight the flavor. I take it off the heat and temper it. After it has cooled somewhat, I add the egg yolk, taking care that it does not boil. I beat until everything is well integrated, then I leave it in a machine to chill. This makes it even creamier and more consistent, so it becomes a real delicacy in the mouth.”
Another Peruvian touch in this dish is lucuma, a Peruvian fruit that puts it on top of a classic meringue, with a honey caramel.
Salazar says he feels immense satisfaction when he completes these delicate desserts.
“You cannot move, you have to constantly adjust the temperature, because if the milk burns, you have to throw it away and start from scratch. The main issue is that people enjoy the desserts, since they are homemade and can only be eaten at K'Kinaco,” he comments.
10 Years Planning
K’Kinaco opened on February 2, but Salazar dreamed of it for 10 years. The dining room has been full since they opening day.
“Minneapolis needed a Peruvian restaurant,” he says. “We went in with a small and consistent menu, but varied for all tastes: Uncomplicated but delicious dishes. I consider myself a cook and not a chef, because for me the greatest pleasure is to be in the kitchen. That is my passion; whenever you see me, I will be doing something in the kitchen because I like it”.
Salazar’s granddaughter was born just a few weeks ago, and for him, the greatest legacy in his life is to grow the restaurant so that his granddaughter will proud that her grandfather was a great cook. Salazar hopes that his granddaughter remembers him through delicious Peruvian food, and feels the connection with that wonderful land that he loves so much.
“That is my legacy. Be consistent and authentic, respecting the Peruvian foods.”
Click here for a recipe for Salazar’s Arroz con Leche.
Natalia Otero is a freelance writer in Colombia.