Alfredo Espinola, a regular contributor to el Restaurante magazine who lives in Mexico City, recently had the pleasure of speaking with Magdalena Aguilar Gonzaléz, a businesswoman from Nayarit and passionate promoter of authentic tequila. During the conversation, she offered a different perspective on this iconic Mexican drink, making it clear and accessible to those of us who enjoy it without being expert tasters.
Magdalena is Directora General Adjunta of Socio Agave, an organization dedicated to field work and rural production; and a partner in Agave Azul Mio, SAPI a company focused on the commercialization of agave products. Through both initiatives, she promotes projects that seek to rescue the tequila tradition and bring high-quality products to the market.
Distiller and bottler: two essential functions
To better understand how authentic tequila is made, it is essential to distinguish between two processes that are often confused: distillation and bottling.
The distillery is the true heart of tequila production. It is the space where the raw material is transformed and where, through a technical and artisanal process that includes cooking, grinding, fermentation, and distillation, agave becomes tequila. According to the Denomination of Origin, this beverage can only be made from blue agave tequilana weber, the only variety officially authorized for producing tequila in Mexico.
This procedure has deep roots. The distillation of agave dates back to the 16th century, when the Spanish introduced distillation techniques from Europe to the region of Nueva Galicia. From then on, the ancient “mezcal wines” began to be perfected until they gave rise to what we know today as tequila. Since that time, distilleries have been the point where tradition, science, and culture come together to give identity to the country's most representative drink.
The bottling plant, on the other hand, serves a different function. It does not participate in the production of tequila, but is responsible for packaging, labeling, and marketing the finished product. Its job is to ensure that the distillate reaches the end consumer with the appropriate presentation and quality standards.
The value of time and the countryside
Unlike other fast-produced alcoholic beverages, tequila requires patience. An agave plant needs at least five years to reach optimal maturity, and in many cases it can take up to seven or eight years.
“The quality of a good tequila comes from the land,” explains Magdalena. “It depends on the type of soil, the minerals, the climate, and the care given to the plant over the years. The longer the agave remains in the ground, the richer the distillate will be.”
This long process is what justifies the value of a quality tequila. Behind each bottle are years of investment, specialized agricultural work, and a deep knowledge of the crop.
Nayarit: a little-known origin
Although Jalisco is known worldwide as the birthplace of tequila, Magdalena points out a little-known historical fact:
“Tequila, as a drink, originated on the banks of the Santiago River, in what is now Nayarit. In the days of Nueva Galicia, mezcal wine was already being distilled here. What originated in Jalisco was the name ‘tequila,’ not the drink itself.”
During the 19th and early 20th centuries, Tepic was an important export center thanks to the port of San Blas. There were times when more distillate was shipped from Nayarit to the world than from Jalisco.
Over time, the industry concentrated in Guadalajara and economic development shifted to that region. However, today Nayarit is experiencing a tequila resurgence, with fertile lands rich in volcanic minerals that give its agaves a unique and distinctive profile.
Authentic tequila vs. adulterated tequila
One of the issues that most concerns Magdalena is the loss of quality resulting from the intervention of large corporations.
“Many traditional brands were bought by transnational companies. Some producers who are not 100% agave have begun to sell as such. They mix cane spirit, flavorings, or additives to lower costs.”
She explains that there are two main categories:
· 100% agave tequila, made only with sugars from blue agave.
· Blended tequila, which can contain up to 49% sugars from other sources.
The problem arises when a blended product is falsely marketed as 100% agave.
"Authentic tequila does not cause a hangover. If it is of good quality and consumed correctly, the body assimilates it differently. The hangover comes from added sugar or poorly managed processes.“
How to recognize a good tequila
For the average consumer, distinguishing quality can seem complicated. However, Magdalena offers some simple tips:
· The aroma and flavor should match.
”What smells good should taste good. If you perceive natural notes of agave and they are confirmed when you taste it, you are looking at an honest tequila."
· Body and texture.
In the glass, it should show a certain natural viscosity, although she warns that some brands add glycerin to simulate this characteristic.
· Learn about the brand
There are tequila houses that have preserved tradition and quality, although they are not always the most advertised.
Culture before excess
For Magdalena, the great challenge for tequila is cultural.
“We need to learn how to drink it. Tequila is not for shots. It is a drink that should be enjoyed in small sips, calmly and respectfully.”
She advocates tastings as a fundamental tool for educating consumers and teaching them to appreciate the aromas, flavors, and processes behind each bottle.
“Tequila is a work of art. It represents years of work by entire communities. It's not just alcohol: it's identity.”
A heritage that must be cared for
Tequila has become one of the most appreciated drinks in the world. The United States is its main consumer, followed by Spain and Colombia. Mexico, paradoxically, ranks only fourth.
Internationalization has boosted its fame, but it has also brought risks.
“Large companies sell image and status, but not always quality. That is why it is essential to promote responsible and educated consumption, so that the essence of our drink is not lost.”
Tequila: identity, culture, and responsibility
"For me, tequila represents much more than just a drink. It is memory, land, work, and culture bottled up. Behind each glass are years of agave cultivation, the hands of farmers who care for it, careful distillation processes, and knowledge that has been passed down from generation to generation.
Tequila is part of the Mexican identity. However, in a market increasingly dominated by mass production and commercialism, we run the risk of losing sight of what is authentic. That is why the real challenge lies in learning to distinguish the good from the bad, to value the processes and to consume with awareness and respect.
If producers manage to maintain its quality, protect its origin and share its history, tequila will continue to be what it has always been: a living symbol of Mexico, proud of its tradition and lineage, a drink that speaks of the land and its people.