Sierra Norte Whiskey comes in six varieties.
By Alfredo Espinola
Just five minutes from the bustling Oaxaca airport, the air changes. Concrete gives way to adobe, the pace slows down, and the aromas of damp earth, firewood, and cooked grain begin to envelop the senses. In San Agustín de las Juntas, a small community that seems frozen in time, one of the best-kept secrets in the world of spirits is distilled: a whiskey with the soul of corn and the heart of Oaxaca.
It is called Sierra Norte, and it is not just any distillate. It is a bold, artisanal, and deeply identity-driven product that combines ancestral history, sustainable agriculture, and the talent of mostly female hands. This whiskey does not seek to resemble those from Scotland or Kentucky. It wants to be, and succeeds in being, something completely different.
Doug French
A distillate with ancient roots
Behind this unique drink is Douglas Kohlberg French, already known in the world of mezcal for his brand Scorpion Mezcal, who has been experimenting with traditional flavors and methods for three decades. But eleven years ago, this master distiller decided to look toward a new horizon.
“Corn has been grown in Oaxaca for more than seven thousand years,” explains Douglas, with the serenity of someone who has lived in the countryside for more than half his life. “Its flavor is complex, deep, and changes with the color of the grain. Why not explore that in a whiskey?”
The result was revolutionary. Sierra Norte Whisky is made with native Oaxacan corn, each with unique organoleptic characteristics. Today there are six expressions, all based on a single variety of grain: white, yellow, red, black, purple, and the blend called rainbow, which combines hundreds of shades and flavors in a bottle that looks like liquid paint.
Each label contains 85% corn and 15% malted barley. No additives. No artificial flavors. “Just two ingredients. And a lot of patience,” says Douglas, smiling.
From field to bottle: the artisanal process
Production begins with grinding the grain, which is then cooked to form the “mash,” a kind of thick porridge that ferments for four days. The liquid is then distilled twice in copper stills, as dictated by the old school.
Then comes the magic of time. The whiskey rests for two to three years in French oak barrels, which impart soft, rounded, and slightly vanilla notes. The entire process takes place within the distillery: from grinding to bottling. And at each stage, the hands at work are mostly female.
The taste of difference
The palate does not lie. To taste Sierra Norte is to encounter a completely new flavor profile. It is unlike any Scotch or American whiskey. It has earthy, vegetal notes, with a natural sweetness from the corn and a velvety texture.
“This whiskey is for those looking for something different. Our customers tend to be adventurous, explorers of flavor,” says Douglas. And he is not exaggerating. At international fairs, the reactions are ones of surprise and fascination. In 2018, Whisky Advocate included Sierra Norte yellow corn whiskey among the 20 best whiskeys in the world, awarding it 90 points. It has also received gold medals from the WSWA (Wine and Spirits Wholesalers of America) and silver in competitions in San Francisco and Brooklyn.
A distillery with a woman's face
But Sierra Norte is not just about flavors. It also tells a story of social impact. Since its inception, the distillery has been committed to local female employment. Today, between 85 and 90% of the team is made up of women, many of whom are single mothers or heads of households.
“The idea is that they can stay in their community, earn a fair income, and not be forced to emigrate,” explains Douglas. This commitment has personal roots: more than 50 years ago, his mother founded a textile workshop with a similar mission.
The atmosphere inside the distillery is cheerful, warm, full of laughter and meticulous work. There, each bottle bears the stamp of a community that refuses to disappear.
From Oaxaca to the world
Although Mexico is not traditionally a whisky-consuming country, Sierra Norte has found an enthusiastic market in the United States, where it is already present in at least ten states and is sold online through its website. www.SierraNorteWhisky.com. In Mexico, it can be purchased on platforms such as Amazon and in specialty stores.
“The road has not been easy. We compete against huge brands with million-dollar budgets. But we have something they don't have: a real story and an authentic flavor,” says the founder with conviction.
How to drink Mexican whiskey
The versatility of Sierra Norte has made it a favorite of creative mixologists, who have developed cocktails with ingredients such as grasshoppers, hoja santa infusions, and cacao. However, Douglas has a simple and accurate recommendation: “It's best to try it neat, at room temperature. That way you can really appreciate the nuances of the corn.”
And it's true. One sip is enough to feel the soul of the Oaxacan fields, the ancestral history of its grains, and the warmth of those who make it.
The first formal Mexican whiskey
Although there are records of small whiskey productions during the Prohibition era on the country's northern border, Sierra Norte is considered the first Mexican whiskey produced formally and continuously. And that makes it a pioneer.
“I've been living in Oaxaca for over 35 years. I feel more Mexican than green chili,” says Douglas, with a contagious laugh. “And this whiskey, even though it has an English name, is 100% Oaxacan.”
A toast with identity
Sierra Norte Whiskey is much more than a drink. It is a manifesto in a bottle. An example of what happens when tradition, innovation, and social consciousness come together. It is a sip of Oaxaca that defies borders, breaks molds, and gives voice to a territory that has always had something to say, only now it says it in another language: that of whiskey.
And as the sun sets over San Agustín de las Juntas, the steam from the stills continues to rise like a corn prayer. Each bottle also contains a hope: that the world will listen and savor what Oaxaca has kept hidden for millennia.
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