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By Alfredo Espinola
In the world of Mexican wine, there is a figure who, rather than simply navigating between glasses and labels, has carved out a legacy with surgical precision, unwavering passion, and long-term vision. Her name is Sandra Fernández Gaytán, and behind her serene elegance lies one of the most influential voices in Latin American wine.
Sommelier, consultant, trainer, writer, and visionary—in short, an architect of good drinking. From the green landscapes of Napa Valley, where she trained professionally at the prestigious Culinary Institute of America, to the executive lounges of Mexican airports and the most select wine lists in the country, Sandra has been a witness to and protagonist of an enological revolution that transformed the national wine scene.
“Wine began as a complement to my career in hospitality and gastronomy, but it soon became the main focus,” she says with the confident voice of someone who has learned that in every glass there is a story that, when told and drunk, becomes art.
Tierra de Vinos: a watershed moment
Three years after completing her training in California, Sandra returned to Mexico with a clear idea: to professionalize the enjoyment of wine. She did so with a project that marked an era: Tierra de Vinos, a wine bar and restaurant in Mexico City that offered not only pairings, carefully selected labels, and tastings, but also a total experience.
“It was a place that bet on no beer, no cocktails, no juices. Only wine and grape distillates,” she recalls that the gamble was a bold one. The result was resounding: Tierra de Vinos became the epicenter of a new wine culture, a space for discovery that shaped palates, demystified wine, and brought it closer to new audiences. “It was the starting point to show that you could drink well, with quality and without elitism.” With a wine-by-the-glass program featuring more than 30 rotating labels, it remains a benchmark in the industry.
A glass on board and a wine with wings
One of the most important milestones in her career was the creation of the 3V and 2V labels, in collaboration with Casa Madero and its partners, designed exclusively for Mexicana de Aviación. "We wanted to show that it was possible to offer quality wine on board a Mexican airline. These bottles democratized Mexican wine: high quality, affordable price, and a narrative that connected with consumers," explains Sandra. And they succeeded. The labels were not only a success, but also marked a before and after in the way Mexican wine was thought of and served.
“We showed that you could drink the history of a winery, the ideology of a winemaker, and the transformation of a country, all at a good price.”
The palate educator
Sandra has been a witness to and protagonist of the Mexican wine boom since the late 2000s. “We experienced a moment of explosion, then chaos, then consolidation,” she explains. The lack of appellations of origin and regulation has been a challenge, but also an opportunity for consumers to become more informed and demanding.
Today, Mexican wine is maturing, although there is still a lack of legal order and generational continuity, as 90% of wineries are first generation. We are just beginning to understand our terroirs.
New generations
For Sandra, attracting new generations to wine is as much a cultural challenge as it is a sensory one. “A taste for wine is developed; it's not about giving wine to children, but about removing sugar from their drinks.” We can't expect a young person who grew up drinking soft drinks or sugary water to enjoy an acidic or astringent wine overnight. You have to cultivate the palate from childhood, she points out with surgical clarity.
The revolution of wine by the glass
If there is one banner that Sandra waves with passion, it is that of wine by the glass in restaurants. “Wine by the glass done well is the gateway to wine. A good wine list by the glass allows you to discover, try, and fall in love with labels without the commitment of a whole bottle,” she argues. Her experience at Tierra de Vinos and currently at the American Express lounges, where more than 24 labels are offered by the glass, proves that the model works. The problem, she says, is that many restaurateurs still fear losses without understanding that a well-served glass can be the biggest gain, both in money and in the diner's experience.
The symbolic weight of recognition
This year, Sandra was named Sommelier of the Year by the Association of Mexican Sommeliers (AMS). This is not the first recognition she has received. She has been awarded by CANIRAC as the best sommelier in the country and by the Brussels World Competition as Woman of the Year 2024, among others. This one is special, “it comes from my community, from those who really know me, from those who can judge me the most. That makes it even more valuable. It reminds me that this path has been worth it, that discipline, study, and passion do leave their mark,” she says excitedly.
The woman behind the glass
Order, structure, and commitment are words that Sandra repeats like a mantra. “I am structured, yes, and also demanding. I believe in the potential of Mexican wine and in the professionalism of the sommelier as an integral figure,” she explains.
For her, being a sommelier is not just about recommending wines and opening bottles; it involves knowing languages, finance, management, gastronomy, and leadership. “You have to invest in yourself, you have to know the business. It's not enough to know how to taste, you have to know how to predict, read financial statements, work with suppliers, teach with humility, and demand with clarity.”
The future: continuing to sow seeds
Although her career seems to have touched everything, Sandra still thirsts for more. “Wine is inexhaustible. There are always new regions, grapes to discover, emerging styles.” She currently collaborates with Casa Dragones, is responsible for wine curation at Xcaret and all of the group's high-level events, such as the Apapaxoa Festival. She also continues to write for Food and Travel and El Momento, sharing her knowledge with those just starting out on this journey.
When asked who she would share a glass with, she answers without hesitation. “With Walt Disney, for creating the most enduring universe of happiness that exists. And I would do it with a Napa Valley Cabernet, for its imposing and bold character and innovative spirit.”
Liquid legacy
Sandra Fernández has not only professionalized a craft, she has elevated it to an art form. She has been a guide, mentor, builder, and critic. She has known how to say no when necessary, demand where others falter, and toast when the occasion warrants it. Today, thanks to her tireless work, wine has a voice, presence, and respect in Mexico. And like the best wines, her legacy is just beginning to breathe.
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