Suadero tacos — the quintessential tacos of Mexico City — are defined not so much by the recipe as by the cut of meat used. This recipe, from Chef Enrique Olvera’s new book Sunny Days, Taco Nights, is characterized by meat fried in its own fat (as it is with carnitas). The raw onion and cilantro are essential, and the lime juice is squeezed over it just before the bite.
Excerpted from Sunny Days, Taco Nights © 2025 by Enrique Olvera; Photography © 2025 by Araceli Paz; reproduced by permission of Phaidon. All rights reserved.
Makes 8 servings
The Suadero:
1 lb. 2 oz./500 g brisket
1 white onion, diced
3 cloves garlic
10 dried bay leaves
5 sprigs dried thyme
1 T. salt
Generous 2 c. (17 fl. oz./500 ml) vegetable oil
Put the meat, onion, garlic, and herbs in a pressure cooker. Add enough water to cover. Cook on high for 30 minutes. Drain the meat, discarding the cooking liquid.
Place a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the oil and a generous 2 cups (17 fl oz/500 ml) of water. Bring to a boil, add the meat, and cook for 10-15 minutes on medium-low heat. Transfer the suadero to a cutting board and chop into bite-size pieces.
To Serve:
8 corn tortillas
½ white onion, finely chopped
Cilantro (coriander), chopped
Lime wedges
Your choice of salsas
Heat a skillet over high heat for 5 minutes. Add the tortillas, flipping them continuously for 2-3 minutes or until warmed through. Transfer to a plate and top each tortilla with suadero. Serve with onion, cilantro (coriander), lime wedges, and any salsa on the side.