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Casa Magoni Chardonnay Vermentino
By Ed Avis
Mexican wine has been growing in importance among U.S. restaurants for the past decade, but one complaint keeps coming up: Mexican wine is hard to get here.
That statement is true, to an extent. Mexican winemakers do not produce in the same quantities as those in Argentina, Peru or Australia, so the amount that’s available for export is less. And while there are some excellent large wineries with a history of export — such as Casa Madero and Monte Xanic — in general Mexican wineries tend to be small, boutique businesses, many of which cater to on-premise visitors rather than the export market.
Those small wineries have been enjoying the most attention in recent years — especially as wine-loving tourists have discovered them — so if you could put wines from these wineries on your menu, it would be a great way to start a Mexican wine list.
Fortunately, a growing number of those boutique wineries are now producing reliable quantities and exporting to the United States. Below is a list of 10 wines, from various regions in Mexico, that have been recommended by Tom Bracamontes, owner of La Competencia Imports. Bracamontes has been making a point of expanding the breadth of Mexican wines available in the United States by looking beyond Valle de Guadalupe and other the trendy regions.
These 10 wines are widely available throughout the U.S. from major wine distributors, though each wine is not available in every state. Ask your distributor about availability.
Sparkling Wine
El Bajio Sparkling Brut (Querataro). This wine, exclusively available in the U.S., is part of collaborative effort between La Competencia Imports and Freixenet de Mexico. The grapes are 50 percent Macabeo, 40 percent Xarel-lo, 10 percent Ugni Blanc. According to tasting notes, this wine is “bursting with aromas of Meyer lemon flowers, jasmine, pear, and hints of Brioche bread.” The importer suggests pairing it with appetizers, fish tacos, sushi, and/or tapas. Retail price: $25 to $30.
Rose
Bruma Ocho Rose (Baja California).The Bruma winery in Valle de Guadalupe is well known to lovers of Mexican wine. This rose is made from 100 percent Sangiovese grapes and is aged six months in stainless steel tanks. The tasting notes say, “Light lychee color, expressive notes of unripe strawberry, white tea, grapefruit and fennel.” Retail price: About $25.
Whites
Casa Magoni Chardonnay Vermentino (Baja California). Casa Magoni is another famous winery in the Valle de Guadalupe. This white blend, made with 80 percent Chardonnay and 20 percent Vermentino grapes, is described as “a fresh and elegant white, with notes of green apple, grapefruit peel, tropical fruits (pineapple) and white flowers.” Retail price: $20 to $30.
Bodegas Henri Lurton Sauvignon Blanc (Baja California). This winery, founded by French winemaker Henri Lurton, makes top-flight wines such as the Sauvignon Blanc. The tasting notes say, “notes of grapefruit and jasmine with a hint of minerality and cassis buds, [which] gives it an extra layer of aromatic richness.” Retail price: $30 to $35.
Llano Colorado Lagrimas Verdejo (Baja California). Famed winemaker Lourdes “Lulu” Martinez Ojeda crafted this white wine, which is made entirely with Verdejo grape. It pairs well with fish, seafood and soft cheeses. Retail price: $20 to $25.
Guaname Blend
Reds
Casa Jipi Nebbiolo (Baja California). Casa Jipi (pronounced “hippy”) is another project of Lulu Martinez Ojeda. This Nebbiolo features “vibrant fruit notes of ripe raspberry, strawberry and red cherry.” Retail price: $22 to $32.
Guaname Blend (Guanajuato). One aspect of Guaname wines that customers love are the labels, all inspired by Picasso’s cubist paintings. The Guaname Blend is 60 percent Malbec, 20 percent Syrah, 15 percent Tempranillo and 5 percent Merlot and has “aromas of blueberries and blackberries, with a touch of black pepper.” Retail price: $23 to $33.
Parvada Cardenal (Coahuila). This wine is made with 50 percent Calladoc and 50 percent Malbec grapes. It has a purple/violet color, with “complex aromas of red fruits, spices and fresh vegetable notes.” This wine would be for customers willing to spend a bit more, as its retail price is $40 to $50.
Tres Raices “Tre” Sangiovese (Guanajuato). This wine from central Mexico is made with 100 percent Sangiovese grapes and “is fresh and fruity, with concentrated cherry, strawberry, and blueberry notes, and a round palate with light and silky tannins.” Retail price: $25 to $30.
Adobe Guadalupe Gabriel
Adobe Guadalupe Gabriel (Baja California). The 2019 vintage of this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Merlot is rated in the top 1 percent of wines of the world, according to wine app/marketplace Vivino. It has “aroma notes of mocha, vanilla, caramel, cherry and raspberry.” This is another red for customers willing to spend more; its retail is $40 to $70.
These are just a sampling of quality Mexican wines available in the United States, and we would love to hear about others you are putting on your menu! Please send your suggestions to Ed Avis at edavis@elrestaurante.com so we can share them with other readers.