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By Alfredo Espinola and Kathleen Furore
Chiles en Nogada at El Naranjo
Chiles en Nogada season has begun — just in time to celebrate Mexican Independence Day on September 16 and Hispanic Heritage Month, which runs from September 15 to October 15 this year.
Made with ingredients including poblanos, pomegranates, and a sauce made of walnuts (the green, red and white of the Mexican flag), Chiles en Nogada dates to 1821, the year nuns in Puebla created it to celebrate Mexico’s Independence and emperor Agustín de Iturbide.
More than two centuries later, restaurant kitchens are turning out the celebratory dish with recipes that recall the original while sometimes putting modern spins on the classic.
El Naranjo Makes the Classic
At El Naranjo in Austin, Texas, celebrated Chef Iliana de la Vega’s Chile en Nogada makes a brief appearance on the lunch and dinner menus exclusively in September every year.
“We have loyal customers who return every year, often asking in advance when the dish will be available. Newcomers usually get hooked and return the same month or the following year,” de la Vega says, noting that she follows a traditional recipe as closely as possible.
“In Mexico, the walnuts used are fresh and peeled throughout the season, but that's not possible in the U.S., so I use them as they are here,” she continues. “There’s also a national debate in Mexico about whether the chiles should be egg-battered and fried. I prefer not to batter them. If you do decide to egg batter, make sure to do it at the last minute, just before serving.”
She also cautions against taking shortcuts. “It’s a classic dish…It requires a bit of work, but it's absolutely worth the effort,” she says.
Velas Resorts Offers Innovative Variations
Velas Vallarte Pizza
Velas Resorts in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, is honoring the Chile en Nogada with the classic recipe plus six dishes and a signature cocktail available through September 22.
Chile en Nogada Pizza: A pizza base of tomato and oregano sauce mixed with Chile en Nogada and gouda cheese filling, topped with poblano bell pepper strips, walnut sauce, pomegranate and fresh parsley leaves
Crepa de Nogada: A crepe filled with cream cheese and dehydrated fruits, finished with sweet nogada sauce and pomegranate seeds
Enchiladas de Nogada: Three tortillas wrapped around Chile en Nogada filling, topped with nogada sauce and poblano bell pepper strips, then sprinkled with pomegranate seeds and parsley leaves
Tamal de Nogada: A corn husk tamale filled with Chile en Nogada filling and rajas, topped with nogada sauce, pomegranate, and parsley leaves
Pellizcadas de Nogada: A fried masa “sope” base stuffed with Chile en Nogada filling, topped with nogada sauce, poblano bell pepper strips, pomegranate seeds, and parsley leaves
Helado de Nogada: Creamy ice cream with the traditional flavor of nogada sauce sweetened and sprinkled with pomegranate
Dragon Ball Cocktail: Pomegranate liqueur, dragon fruit, pickle juice, gin, tonic water, and fresh pomegranate
Click here to see Chef Iliana de la Vega’s classic Chile en Nogada recipe.
SIDEBAR: Restaurants in Mexico Tweak Chile en Nogada Fillings
Restaurants in the State of Puebla — the birthplace of Chiles en Nogada — are taking creative license with fillings that range from salty to sweet.
Restaurante Restauro: Traditional filling of creole fruits and ground beef and pork, covered by a light capeado and bathed with nogada full of nutty flavor.
Restaurante la Textilería: Sweet but balanced filling characterized by pine nuts, topped with a lightly textured nogada with a touch of port, then garnished with fried parsley for a crunchy texture
Restaurante la Noria: Special combination of beef, fruit and a touch of piloncillo, topped with a non-liquor nogada that highlights the walnut flavor with extra pieces of walnut.
Alfredo Espinola is el Restaurante's representative in Mexico City, and Kathleen Furore is the editor.
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