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Pepe Stepensky and his wife, Deborah Stepensky, own four restaurants in San Diego: two locations of Porkyland Mexican Grill, plus Margarita’s Kitchen & Cantina and San Diego Burger Company, the latter two long-time staples of the city’s Seaport Village.
How did Pepe — a self-described “Mexican Jewish vegetarian” — end up as a restaurateur, with one concept focused on pork carnitas and one on burgers?
Here, this entrepreneur shares the story that began when he arrived in the United States almost four decades ago.
1 When you moved to San Diego from Mexico in 1986, you worked at your brother's dry cleaning business until you heard that the San Diego Burger Company was for sale. What made you think you could succeed in restaurants despite having no experience in that field?
When you move to a new country as an immigrant, you come ready to learn, to work hard, and to do whatever it takes — not just to get by, but to really “make it.” That was our mindset. There were no “what ifs,” just an opportunity that opened up — and we went for it.Deborah is a fantastic cook, so I figured I’d learn the basics and then she could step in and make it even better. I went around to all the big-name burger franchises, sat there for hours, studying everything and picking out the best ideas from each one.Then I reached out to a young guy who had worked with me before, Edgar Garcia. The three of us teamed up and created a new menu and a unique flavor. That was the beginning of a partnership that’s still going strong — 35 years later.
2 How long did you own San Diego Burger Company before you took over the Mexican restaurant next door? And how different was it to operate a family-style Mexican restaurant?
It was three years later. And it was a whole different story — a totally different animal! This concept needed more specific recipes, a full menu, and tons of prep from scratch: salsas, guacamole, marinades, rice, beans, you name it. And we had to pull it off in just 325 square feet, so making it all work in such a small space was a real challenge.We decided to keep the existing menu but change the name from La Fresca to Margarita’s Kitchen and Cantina. With the same team, we made improvements to the food and added Margaritas to the mix.We kept Armando and his wife Claudia, who had already been there for years working with the previous owners. They brought a lot of experience to the table, and once again, it turned into a great partnership —now going strong for 30 years!
3 After 15 years of running two restaurants, what made you decide you were up for the challenge of running yet another business when you bought Porkyland?
Porkyland was originally owned by some friends of ours. Deborah used to help them out with the restaurant bookkeeping as a special favor to one of the owners, and I pitched in too — training one of their sons who was getting ready to take over the business.The only condition we asked for was that if he ever decided it wasn’t for him, we’d get the first right of refusal. And that’s exactly how we ended up buying the restaurant.
By then, we already had the experience, and Porkyland was — and still is — a landmark brand in San Diego. We couldn’t pass up the opportunity. We opened a second and third location in the next few years, but we just have two at the moment, both in Carmel Valley in San Diego.
4 Times have changed since you started in the restaurant business. COVID upended the industry, and tariffs and immigration policies are beginning to wreak havoc. How are you coping?
Yes, the industry has changed a lot. COVID forced us to rethink everything. And now tariffs and immigration policies are adding new challenges — especially around staffing and costs.We’ve adapted by simplifying our menus, working closely with trusted suppliers, and investing more in training and retaining our team. It’s all about staying flexible, being proactive, and focusing on what we can control. After decades in this business, we’ve learned to roll with the punches and keep moving forward.
5 What advice do you have for restaurant owners who are thinking of opening a new concept or a second location of their current operation?
Branching out isn’t always the best way to grow. After a lifetime in the restaurant world, I’ve learned that sometimes the smartest move is to reinvent yourself and invest in what you already have. Opening a new location can seem exciting, but it can also drain resources, cut into the profits of your original spot, and add more stress, more overhead, and more risk.Especially in uncertain times, it’s often wiser to consolidate, focus, and double down on what makes you unique. Growth isn’t just about getting bigger — it’s about getting better.
SIDEBAR: Get More Advice from Pepe
Pepe Stepensky regularly taps his decades of experience to write insightful articles about improving restaurant operations. Click here to see a directory of his articles.