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Editor's Note: Since its origin, mezcal has been intimately related to women. Legend has it that the maguey came from the Mexican goddess Mayahuel, a mythical plant that brings happiness to humans through tequila, mezcal and pulque. In this interview, Xóchitl Liviere Reynoso Zamora, general director of Agaves de Origen, S.A. de C.V., and current president of Mujeres Empresarias de Agave Mezcal de Jalisco, shares her personal story immersed in the world of mezcal.
Xóchitl Liviere Reynoso Zamora, general director of Agaves de Origen, S.A. de C.V.
By Alfredo Espinola
In my beginning in this world of agave, I was a restaurateur with industrial dining rooms, first in Mexico City, then in several airports, such as Colima, Guanajuato and Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, where I also had a Snack Bar.
At that time (1991) the quality of tequilas was changing, improving, and there was a lot of interest in the national and international market. I began to be interested in knowing everything related to the Agaveros sector, both its processes and commercialization.
I visited tequila factories to learn about their processes. I found a mentor: Mr. Antonio Nuñez, owner of Tequila El Viejito, took me by the hand to teach me their processes. Their tequila was one of the five best in the market. I worked there and helped develop some of their brands, such as Tequila Mi Viejo, XR Azul and Querido Viejo.
I learned a great deal about agave during that time, and I was trained as a taster. But it was very difficult, as I was one of the first women in the agave industry. It was a male-dominated industry – I remember one at a tequila industry lunch they kindly asked me to leave, as they did not feel comfortable with my presence.
Fortunately, I always could look to my mother as an example of a strong woman. She only finished the third year of elementary school and raised six children with twenty pesos in the bag and three months of rent due. I always say, if she could do it, why can't I? Women always have an extraordinary inner strength that many times they don't realize they have.
About 15 years ago I started my own business, focusing on mezcal. I fell in love with its processes and realized that tequila is the son of mezcal, the roots are of mezcal, since tequila was previously called tequila vino de mescal. My first brand was Caballo Viejo, and it remains my star brand in both tequila and mezcal.
In addition to Caballo Viejo, we now produce a number of brands of mezcals, raicilla and other agave products, including the mezcals Buen Año, Masparillo and Monte Luna; the raicillas Delicada Flor del Alma, Don Mariano, Monte Marea, Real Roque and Xanan; and the crema, liqueuer and sangrita brands Divina Patrona and Fiesta Mexicana.
We make them in two types of factories, one is artisanal and the other ancestral. For example, Caballo Viejo is made in the artisanal factory, and Masparillo in the ancestral factory. The equipment in the ancestral factory includes pit ovens, wooden fermentation vats, clay distillation pots and stone grinders. We make sure that the agave is 100 percent wild. It is endemic to the region and grows naturally; sometimes it is found in very steep places and the maguey balls are brought down on mules.
In the United States, our Caballo Viejo mezcal has been very well accepted. It is a very palatable product, it is not aggressive, on the contrary, it is noble and smooth. Our mezcal reposado is aged for nine months in white oak barrels, in which whiskey once rested in Canada, which gives it a slightly oaky bouquet. Its flavor is balanced and causes a pleasant sensation on the palate.
In addition to the United States, my mezcal is exported to Australia and Colombia, and we are about to open trade in Spain and England.
New product: Canta mi Rito
This year we are innovating with a great product called "Canta mi Rito." It is a real clay cantarito without lead, with a package inside that contains citrus and mescal. It has a delicious fresh and natural flavor. We think it will be successful in the domestic and foreign markets, as it is innovative and nostalgic, and 100 percent from Jalisco.
I feel honored to have reached these goals and achievements during my career. Sometimes I don’t believe that I have come so far and overcome so many difficulties.
My three children and now my granddaughter Valentina have always been my greatest pillars, they have been my driving force to overcome challenges. I could say that I practically bathed my children in tequila -- they managed to study at their universities thanks to the work and effort of tequila and mescal.
Despite the obstacles, this industry has given me many satisfying moments. I am proud of contributing to society, and I hope I can inspire other women to achieve their goals.
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