The Winners: 2021 Jarritos/el Restaurante Independent Mexican Restaurant Owner of the Year

Editor’s Note: Wow, we were overwhelmed with the response to our first contest honoring independent Mexican restaurant owners. We received nearly 700 nominations! It was difficult choosing the winners, but in the end these three topped the rest. They were chosen by a panel of four judges: Lilly Rocha, CEO of the Latino Restaurant Association; Eric Delamare, director of marketing, Novamex; Kathleen Furore, editor of el Restaurante; and Ed Avis, publisher of el Restaurante.

First Place: Delilah Snell, Alta Baja Market, Santa Ana, CA

            Each successful independent restaurant owner is unique, with his or her own style, passions and hopes. But many of them have these qualities in common: They are creative in the kitchen, they build relationships with their employees, and the sincerely engage with the community. Delilah Snell, owner of Alta Baja Market in Santa Ana, California, exhibits these qualities clearly. Snell is the first place winner in the 2021 Jarrito’s/el Restaurante Independent Mexican Restaurant Owner of the Year Contest.

            “Delilah is a true Orange County gem,” wrote customer Kelly Kraus-Lee in her nomination of Snell. “Her cafe … is a community gathering place. Her spot, Alta Baja, is a cultural hub for Latin foods and culture.”

            Snell opened Alta Baja – which is both a restaurant and a retail market -- in 2016 with the idea to celebrate the food and culture of Mexico, California and the American Southwest. She gives life to her idea by creating a menu that is inspired by the cuisine of those regions yet with her own creative spin. And everything incorporates ingredients from small, authentic providers.

            Popular dishes include Blue Corn Chile-Cheese Cakes, Nathalie’s Chilaquiles, and The Lady Sees Green Chile Enchilada – all combining fresh, traditional ingredients with the creativity of Snell and her cooking staff. Her beverage menu highlights Hispanic culture: She works with three importers to bring in 50 wines from Valle de Guadalupe, and her michelada list extends far beyond the classic tomato-based michi, including versions featuring coconut and pineapple and avocado and serranos.

            “When we’re developing our menu we listen to our customers and what they like,” Snell says. “Everything we make is healthy, super nutritious. It all resembles traditional Mexican or Southwest food, but with a creative take on it.”

            A favorite that only appears on the menu on the last Sunday of the month is pozole, made using a recipe from Snell’s mother-in-law, who is from Zacatecas, Mexico.

            “That started on New Years Day in 2017,” she remembers. “My husband and I said, ‘Let’s make pozole,’ and we were slammed. Everybody wanted this warm, hangover, comfort food. Everyone asked me when we were making it again – it was so much work, I had to think of the furthest away date, so I said the last Sunday of the month! We’ve been doing it ever since. Now we’re a hangout place on that day, we have DJs and music, and I invite other local vendors to sell their products.”

            The once-a-month pozole day exemplifies Snell’s attitude: She makes Alta Baja a genuine community hub, not just a business.

            “Alta Baja is more than cafe/market,” wrote customer Cynthia Rebolledo in another nomination for Snell. “It provides a platform for small businesses and makers above and below the US/MX border — highlighting flavors and cultures through food, art, books and housewares. It’s a gathering place for local non-profits, community leaders, and artists to host educational activities, book readings, lectures and so much more. She is a pillar for the city of Santa Ana.”

            Snell loves collaborating with other businesses and community organizations. She gladly stocks the food items of small, local producers – “everything here has a story,” she emphasizes. Local bookstores do signings, the high school jazz band performs (at least prior to COVID), and a local theater hosts mini productions. Every element contributes to the spirit of Alta Baja.

            Authentic food and community engagement are two important criteria of the Jarritos/el Restaurante Independent Mexican Restaurant Owner of the Year Contest, but there is one more: a commitment to employees. Snell demonstrates that quality just as profoundly.

            Snell’s 10 employees are remarkably friendly, according to several nominations. She says that starts with the hiring process. In addition to the basic questions, she asks prospective hires to write down their hobbies and interests and why they want to work at Alta Baja.

            “That’s important, because the people who work here, yes they want a job, but they also want to be here,” she says. “And I ask them about their hobbies and interests because I really want to get to know them.”

            Employees learn every job at Alta Baja, from cooking and baking to cleaning and working the retail part of the business. But Snell is right there with them: “I try to lead by example. I don’t expect you to work hard unless I work hard, too. We work hard together. Every little victory we get I try to share with the team, because they’re part of what makes it happen.”

            To keep the employees connected to the spirit of Alta Baja, Snell takes nearly the whole team to Mexico once a year. They visit Valle de Guadalupe, drink the wine, sample the cuisine, and bond with each other. When employees discover something new on those trips, it often ends up in the café’s cuisine or the market’s shelves.

            As COVID eases, Snell envisions even more growth and community connection at Alta Baja: “We have a lot of stuff happening in the next couple of months. We’re expanding the kitchen and just got our full liquor license. We’ll do a more education, more walking food tours, more discussions of the foodways of certain products. I’m excited about the future.”

Second Place: Martha Ortega, El Cochinito Contento, Fresno, CA

            The adjectives customers use to describe Martha Ortega, owner of El Cochinito Contento in Fresno, California all have a similar tone: welcoming, kind, generous, compassionate. It’s no surprise that somebody that warm and beloved, who also is highly praised for her delicious Mexican cuisine, was nominated for the Jarrito’s/el Restaurante Independent Mexican Restaurant Owner of the Year Contest by 26 people! Ortega won second place in the contest.

            “Martha is the community mom, or Tia. She openly gives so much more than just food — she provides a sense of pride and love in a community,” wrote customer Ivette Lopez in her nomination of Ortega. “From always donating food and cash to organizations, being supportive for outside endeavors for their employees, and even donating to a local non-profit radio station that lives just a few blocks down the road, Martha and El Cochinito have enriched many lives through their love of Mexican cuisine and a love of their people, period.”

            Ortega and her husband Roy opened the restaurant in 1991, and they have been committed to serving great food and the community ever since.

            “I like to help the community,” Ortega says. “I’ve been doing that for many years. Every time they ask me for something, I do it for them. The California Highway Patrol, the Fresno PD, and lots of other places. Every time they say, ‘Martha, can you help us?’ I say, ‘Sure, what do you need?’”

            One of the nominations came from Sgt. Armando Hindman of the Fresno County Chapter of the National Latino Peace Officers Association. Among other things, Hindman wrote: “Martha takes it upon herself to provide exceptional support and service to our community. She discerns quickly individuals needs that walk through her restaurant door and efficiently assists them in any way possible. She is known for providing meals for the needy, homeless and anyone in need. During these Pandemic times, all restaurant businesses have been hit financially. However, that has not stopped Martha from assisting families in need of food.”

            And speaking of food, many of the nominees wrote how much they love El Cochinito Contento’s cuisine. The restaurant serves top quality versions of truly Mexican classics, such as Carnitas, Albondigas, Camaron al Mojo de Ajo, Tacos de Asada and Tacos de Tripa.

            “The food always makes me feel like waking up at a warm traditional Mexican home. Everything is hand made,” wrote Alexandria Jennings. That sentiment was echoed by customer Edson Lopez: “The second you walk in, you feel like you just got to your Mom’s house and she is READY to serve you and make sure you never leave hungry. Her dishes are as close to anything I’ll ever have remembered eating as a kid.”

            A key criterion for the Jarrito’s/el Restaurante award is support of employees, and Ortega wins in that category as well, according to the nominations.

            “I’ve seen how their staff have become family, and how Martha has supported them in pursuing their passions,” Ivette Lopez wrote. “In one example, an employee was able to achieve a dream of being a small business owner through the support of Martha and her family, having the ability to open a boutique thanks to flexible working arrangements and support.”

            Ortega’s skill in the kitchen, treatment of employees, and community engagement clearly earned her this honor. But her true legacy is the welcoming atmosphere she has created, as Edson Lopez wrote: “This is home, and Martha will always be there to greet and feed you.”

Third Place: Andres Reyes, Birrieria Ocotlan, Chicago

            Andres Reyes is only 33 years old, but he is maintaining a tradition that stretches back to 1926, when his great great grandfather started a birrieria in Ocatlan, Jalisco. Reyes’ restaurant, appropriately called Birrieria Ocotlan, was founded by his father, Ramon, in 1973. Andres took over the business when Ramon retired about five years ago.

            “If you’re from Ocatlan, Jalisco and your name is Reyes, you’re associated with being a birriria,” Reyes says. “We still have a cousin there who has a pretty popular birriria.”

            Reyes is living up to the reputation of his last name – Birreria Ocotlan, which has two locations, is widely praised for its traditional goat and beef birria. “The birria and this restaurant are the most authentic taste and feel that you can get outside of Mexico here in Chicago,” wrote customer Gerardo Orozco in his nomination of Reyes.

            The success of Birrieria Ocotlan, and Reyes’ support of his employees and community, are what led to him winning third place in the Jarrito’s/el Restaurante Independent Mexican Restaurant Owner of the Year Contest.

            The authentic birria is at the heart of Reyes’ success. He has maintained the four-generation-old family recipe, which means each batch is created by hand in a five-hour process. The finishing touch is a special spice mix, which Reyes mixes himself in batches that last one month. Customers order tacos made with the birria or bowls of the consommé with birria.

            But Reyes’ success is due to more than just great birria, according to the people who nominated him.

            “Andres Reyes always puts his employees first,” wrote Stacy Carreon in her nomination of Reyes. “During the pandemic he shut down for two weeks while he adapted to put in place COVID safety measures, and paid everyone the full two weeks. He recently also closed his restaurant for two hours and personally drove each member of his staff to get a COVID vaccine (If the employee of course chose to do so). He was able to advocate and secure appointments for all of his frontline working Latino staff who he employs.”

            Many residents of the South Side and Southeast Side communities of Chicago that house the two locations Birrieria Ocotlan worked at steel mills in previous generations, but when those mills closed the area suffered economically. Reyes says he’s pleased that his restaurants have remained an essential part of those communities, and he’s always happy to support local youth sports teams and other charities.

            “We owe it to South Chicago and Southeast Chicago to give back,” Reyes says. “So when we have sports teams come in, we support them – soccer, baseball and softball. It gets kids out of their everyday lives, and maybe helps them see a better future.”

            According to the nominations, Reyes’ efforts to improve the lives of residents in his community -- either through philanthropy, employment, or great food – are succeeding. Says Carreon: “This Birria restaurant changes lives.”