Photo by Jean Nagy
Villa Mexico Cafe
Julie King
By Ed Avis
The Mexican/Latin foodservice industry has deep roots in the United States, but it also is producing many new leaders. At el Restaurante, we’ve been observing both groups – veterans who have been around for years, and up-and-coming chefs, owners, and managers. This article is the first of a series that will highlight a select group of these individuals.
Each article in this series will include two “first person” profiles – one veteran and one up-and-comer. In addition, it will include brief descriptions of a select group of other leaders in the field in that geographic area. This is not a comprehensive list of important players, by any means – it is designed to just offer a taste of important people in the field. In subsequent editions we will write about other U.S. regions.
Veteran: Julie King -- From Lawyer to Burrito Master
Julie King is the owner of Villa México Café, a Mexican restaurant in Boston. Her legions of loyal customers call her Momma King.
I was a lawyer in Mexico City when my husband, an American Navy officer from Texas, passed away in 1997. I had promised him that when our daughter, Bessie, was about to start high school, we would move to the States so she could go to college there. When she finished middle school 20 years ago, she and I moved to Boston. Read More
Up-and-Comer: Hugo Orozco – Putting His Own Spin on Comfort Food
Hugo Orozco is the chef at Vida Verde, a Mexican bar/restaurant in Midtown Manhattan that opened in 2017.
I have worked with food since I can remember. When I was growing up in Mexico, my family owned a little store with a small butcher shop and fruits and vegetables, and I used to help them on the weekends and after school. That’s how I fell in love with hospitality and customer service. And since I can remember I have loved to eat! Read More
A Dozen to Watch
Socrates Abreu, owner, Chilacates, Boston. His restaurant was named the 2017 Best Mexican Restaurant in Boston Magazine, just two years after opening. One reason: Homemade corn tortillas and telera bread.
Ivan Garcia, chef, Mesa Coyoacan, New York. Watch for more noteworthy achievements from this Mexico City native. He moved to New York in 2000, worked in some top spots, and has already opened ultra-popular Mesa Coyoacan, Guadalupe Inn, and Zona Rosa.
Fany Gerson, owner, La Newyorkina, New York. Gerson is all about the sweets – in 2010 she started La Newyorkina, which sells Mexican-style artisan popsicles from carts, and later that year she co-founded Dough, which purveys treats such as Horchata doughnuts.
Chef Maria Hernandez and Chef Raquel Diaz, Don José Tequilas Restaurant, Providence, Rhode Island. These chefs helped introduce Providence to upscale Mexican cuisine, including cochinita pibil and the use of molcajetes, when they opened in 2000.
Oliver and Leo Kremer, Dos Toros Taqueria. The brothers launched this taqueria in 2009, evidently because they couldn’t find the type of burritos they preferred, and already have 14 locations in New York and one in Chicago. Watch out Chipotle!
Sofia Luna and Jean Urbina, Sophie’s Cuban Cuisine, New York. Luna, the owner, and Urbina, the director of operations, run 10 locations of this popular counter service spot, and more are planned. Their growth is not a surprise: Their sandwiches “with a twist” are irresistible!
Danny Mena, owner, La Loncheria, New York. La Loncheria, a Mexican luncheonette, is Mena’s second restaurant. In 2007 the Mexico City native launched Hecho en Dumbo, which is known for its “refined rustic” Mexican cuisine. He’s also a key figure in the mezcal industry in Mexico.
Albeiro Orozco and Paola Valencia, Brisas Colombianas, Elizabeth, New Jersey. This husband and wife from Manziales, Colombia started with a bakery 20 years ago. Today the restaurant is regarded as one of the best Colombian restaurants in the Tri-State area, and an empañada factory is underway.
Do you know an up-and-coming Latin chef, owner, or manager who should be profiled in an upcoming edition of el Restaurante? Tell Publisher Ed Avis, edavis@restmex.com