La Cosecha
A rendition of the interior of La Cosecha in Washington DC
By Ed Avis
Some things just work better in groups. That seems to be the idea behind the rise in food halls and markets – places that gather multiple restaurants, and sometimes other related businesses, in one place. Three of these venues, including a new one in Washington DC scheduled to open this summer, are focused entirely on Latin cuisine and culture.
“Being part of this community not only gives you close neighbors, but the market itself provides so many resources,” says Christian Irabién, who is opening his restaurant, Amparo Fondita, within La Cosecha, a 20,000-square-foot market in the heart of the nation’s capital. “In a stand-alone restaurant, if your ice machine breaks down, you have to figure it out. But in La Cosecha they have a commissary, and they really try to make sure everyone has the tools they need to perform.”
Christian Irabien
Christian Irabien
Irabién’s new restaurant began its existence as a pop-up last summer. The pop-up, serving mostly coastal Mexican fare from the Chihuahua-born chef’s family recipes, was such a success that several developers approached him about opening a permanent location. He says he chose La Cosecha because the developer, EDENS, seemed the best equipped and was in tune with his ideas.
“It feels right to be part of this market that’s a couple of blocks from the White House during these times,” he says. “EDENS is working with all of the embassies around here, and a lot of great artists and stores. Their mission, values and vision aligned with what we’re doing.”
La Cosecha will include 14 retailers and restaurants. Among the restaurants joining Amparo Fondita are elcielo, a gourmet Colombian restaurant from chef Juan Manuel Barrientos; Ali Pacha, a plant-based restaurant helmed by Bolivian chef Sebastian Quiroga; and White Envelope Arepa + Ceviche Bar from Venezuelan chef Federico Tischler.
Irabién says his contract with the developer calls for him to pay a percentage of sales that varies by how well the restaurant performs. He’s feeling confident about the potential success.
“I think La Cosecha will start making a lot of noise when it opens up,” he says. “They are bringing in a lot of super talented people. As soon as we open the doors, there will be a lot of attention drawn to us, to the La Cosecha family as a whole.”
Different Concept, Similar Focus
Portland Mercado has a similar focus on Latin cuisine as La Cosecha, but the overall concept and vendors are decidedly different. The 4-year-old venue, which includes nine food carts offering cuisine from Mexico, Colombia, Cuba and El Salvador, is hosted by Hacienda, a non-profit organization that originally focused on affordable housing and after-school education. The Mercado is designed as a business incubator.
“The market is thriving,” says Ambar Solarte, Hacienda’s communications manager. “Most of the businesses that started with Mercado are still there, and a couple of them have opened second locations.”
Solarte says one Portland Mercado success story is Mixteca, a Oaxacan food cart that recently opened a bricks-and-mortar location. And one of the chefs from a Cuban food cart called Que Bola? has opened a Caribbean-Latin restaurant called Meridian 7 in east Portland.
“We also have a commercial kitchen here,” Solarte says. “About 50 small business owners use the kitchen, from making dog treats to catering to salsa.”
Chicago Style
A third type of Latin food hall/market is represented by Latinicity in Chicago, which opened in 2015. This downtown venue includes a fine Mexican restaurant, a bar, and eight food stations, including a ceviche bar and a Latin grill. It is entirely owned by Richard Sandoval Hospitality.
Diners receive a charge card when they enter the space, use it to pay for food and drinks at any of the stations, and settle up with a cashier on the way out. Parts of Latinicity are rented out for events, such as cooking demos, and private parties.
Ed Avis is the publisher of el Restaurante. You can reach him at edavis@restmex.com
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