Panelists at the mezcal event included Bricia Lopez, Jason Thorn, Bryant Orozco and Michael Capoferri
By Nathan Avis
Sometimes serving cocktails isn’t all about the profit margins. That was a common theme at a panel discussion about mezcal from the professional’s point of view at Guelaguetza Restaurant in Los Angeles on February 24.
One topic, sustainability, kept appearing throughout the conversation, and it was clear that every panelist takes it into account when deciding what brands to sell. They also made it clear that sustainability isn’t just a buzzword – there are tangible measures brands can take in order to prove their commitment to it.
“I see more brands now promoting sustainability,” noted panelist Bryant Orozco, bar director at Madre Restaurant. “More and more brands are being very clear about how many agave plants they’re planting for how many they’re harvesting.”
Customers care about sustainability and related issues, the panelists noted. They seek out information about the mezcal producers, from whether they’re paying fair wages to planting multiple agave plants for each one harvested. Brand reps should be able to provide information such as how many bottles of mezcal were made per batch, the process behind creating the product, and where the agave was harvested, all details that point to quality as well as sustainability.
The label on the bottle can also tie into the sustainability piece and expand upon it, offering information about the maker’s sustainability practices or the story behind their product.
Price Also Matters
The panelists admitted they couldn’t make their decisions based solely on sustainable practices. Since mezcal is a premium liquor already, sustainability is just one element playing into the balance between profits and ethics.
“I make a lot of decisions based on price because, let's be honest, people aren’t going to come in here and pay $32 for a cocktail,” said Bricia Lopez, co-owner of Guelaguetza and a panelist.
While sustainability or the brand’s transparency may help a bar professional choose between two brands, none of the panelists put products on their shelves that they can’t cut a profit on.
Mezcal Knowledge is Essential
The panelists made clear that having intimate knowledge of the product is paramount when serving mezcal. Whether that is information about the growing practices or the location of the farm the agave comes from, customers seek out this information for a premium product and having answers to their questions boosts interest in the drink. Being able to tell the story of a product is fascinating for customers and provides a sense of transparency.
“It’s interesting for a consumer at my bar to have the bottle in front of them and read about not just the ingredients” but more details such as what town the agave is from and how they’re distilling it, Orozco noted.
This is where variety -- or a lack thereof -- comes into play. Logic suggests that the more varieties of mezcal offered, the better, but that’s not necessarily true. All panelists stated that they only carry two brands of mezcal, because it’s more important to carry two high quality brands with a good backstory than to have a large number of random brands.
Mezcal cocktails cost $11 to $14, so it’s important that they meet a particular standard, and being picky about the brands offered helps ensure that.
Other points the panelists made include:
- Freebies look bad. When brands try to sell their products by offering things like free cases of their beverage, it raises red flags. It comes across as cheap.
- Mezcal is expensive; margins are often lower on mezcal cocktails than on other cocktails. Serving smaller amounts for a lower price can help combat drinks that are too pricey for customers.
- Customers are more inclined to ask questions about premium products like mezcal, so it’s important to know a brand’s backstory.
The panel also included Michael Capoferri, a partner in Thunderbolt restaurant, and was moderated by journalist Jason Thorn.
If you would like to watch a recording of the event, click here.